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Flathead Buttress
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Fresh Aire T 
My Mom's Burnt Cat Memorial  T 
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Rain Dance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A4-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A4- [details]
FA: June 1987, Russ Johnson and Glen Cambron
Season: summer
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Russell Johnson on Aug 21, 2014

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Glen at Rain Dance bivy during FA

Description 

This route ascends the left side of the south face of Flathead Peak. As originally done the route had a lot of aid climbing (perhaps some of that has gone free since). A single bolt (hand-drilled 1/4") was placed on the first ascent (on pitch 2). Apparently a subsequent party took a whipper on this bolt, so its present condition is unknown.

After five pitches there is a very nice bivy ledge. After 8 pitches, the route joins Fresh Aire (at a bolt). From there, it is one more pitch to the top.

I have uploaded a topo of the route and a photograph (the red dots are the belay stances we used on the first ascent).

Protection 

Wide range of pro. See bottom right corner of the topo for rack information. That represents what was used for the first ascent. More "clean" aid placements could certainly be used now.


Photos of Rain Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Glen on Rain Dance (P2) during FA
Glen on Rain Dance (P2) during FA
Rock Climbing Photo: topo of Rain Dance
BETA PHOTO: topo of Rain Dance
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ on Rain Dance during FA
Russ on Rain Dance during FA
Rock Climbing Photo: photo of Rain Dance
BETA PHOTO: photo of Rain Dance

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