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Rain Dance 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Doug Byerly and Kath Pyke
Page Views: 2,439
Submitted By: paco on Jun 1, 2001  with updates from Ken Duncan

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Description 

Rain Dance certainly has some super fun cracks on quality rock, but I don't think this route deserves three stars either. If coming up to do it, make sure you do another route the same day (see Refugium).

The 1st 5.9 pitch on this route consists of beautiful finger cracks up a perfect slab. In my opinion, the best pitch of either Rain Dance or Refugium. From there continue via variations (the .9+ is fun but thin) to the top. Note: watch out for loose chicken heads on top of last pitch!

Per Ken Duncan: the description below assumes use of a 70m rope, most of it should go the same with a 60m. Start on a ledge above the highest grassy point right of the starting slabs for Arrowplane, etc. There are great belay ledges all the way!

P1. Climb the groove and fins above to a grassy slope 5.6. Belay at the highest grassy point.

P2. Angle up and left the the top of the big, right-facing dihedral, then head straight up to another large, grassy ledge, 5.7.

P3. Climb the groove/flake feature above to a third large grassy ledge 5.6. Belay here or on the rock ledge down and right below the P4 crack.

P4. The money pitch. Climb the left-angling crack up the sweeping slab 5.8 at the start, then it gets easier. Continue along the crack as it arches left into the left-facing dihedral 5.9 then up to an optional belay ledge on the right. Hand traverse a flake left then climb the thin crack up to another big, grassy ledge 5.9+/10a.

P5. From the left end of the ledge, climb a short dihedral, then angle left up a grassy slope. Head back right and climb a short 5.8 chimney to a ledge. Now you have three options, a right-angling groove that heads into the dihedral 5.8, the dihedral 5.9, or the right wall 5.10a. Choose one and take it to the top.

Protection 

Standard, high peak rack with some extra thin gear.

Per Ken Duncan: bring extra small to medium cams.


Photos of Rain Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Meggie Marsden following the 2nd pitch of Rain Dan...
Meggie Marsden following the 2nd pitch of Rain Dan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Meggie Marsden following the 4th and last pitch of...
Meggie Marsden following the 4th and last pitch of...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Rain Dance, 5.6.
1st pitch of Rain Dance, 5.6.

Comments on Rain Dance Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 28, 2010

Anybody interested in adding a description of the climb that gives some information about the where the route goes, starts, etc.
Cheers.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Aug 22, 2015

Here is a description of how we did the route using a 70m rope. Most of the pitches should go the same with a 60. Start on a ledge above the highest grassy point right of the starting slabs for Arrowplane, etc. There are great belay ledges all the way!

P1. Climb the groove and fins above to a grassy slope 5.6. Belay at the highest grassy point.

P2. Angle up and left the the top of the big, R-facing dihedral then head straight up to another large grassy ledge 5.7.

P3. Climb the groove/flake feature above to a third large, grassy ledge 5.6. Belay here or on the rock ledge down and right below the P4 crack.

P4. The money pitch. Climb the left-angling crack up the sweeping slab 5.8 at the start, then it gets easier. Continue along the crack as it arches left into the left-facing dihedral 5.9 then up to an optional belay ledge on the right. Hand traverse a flake left then climb the thin crack up to another big, grassy ledge 5.9+/10a.

P5. From the left end of the ledge, climb a short dihedral, then angle left up a grassy slope. Head back right and climb a short 5.8 chimney to a ledge. Now you have three options, a right-angling groove that heads into the dihedral 5.8, the dihedral 5.9, or the right wall 5.10a. Choose one and take it to the top.

Gear: standard rack with extra small to medium cams.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Jul 25, 2016

This is our pitch breakdown with a 60m rope. We went up summit ramp halfway and traversed left to a grassy ledge (started this route on pitch 3 as described above). Pitch 3 starts in an low angle opposing corner system - set up belay on right side of grassy ledge below finger crack. Pitch 4 is awesome finger crack to left-facing corner. We belayed about 10 ft shy of the top of the corner on a good ledge - this was a full 60m pitch. Pitch 5 - left on flake to thin crack (10a variation), then traverse left to belay below obvious left-facing corner system. Pitch 6 - took 10a variation right of corner - this pitch has a lot of lichen and crumbly rock (may be better to climb corner?). Overall a very fun route!