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Perpetual Motion Wall
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Rain Dance 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This route lies on the east wall of a narrow north-south corridor just east of Perpetual Motion. The corridor cuts through the clump, providing the most direct route between Perpetual Motion and Star Wars Rock. The north end of the corridor is a short ways west of Hoser on the north side of the clump. About midway through the corridor, look for a steep finger-eating thin crack across from an overhanging corner (Rainshadow). Insert your digits and torque your way to the top. Remember: pain builds character.


Stoppers and micro-cams.

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By Craig Clarence
Feb 20, 2003

Isn't this climb actually called Knack in the Vogel guide? We were up there last weekend and the description above of this climb sounds exactly like the Knack route.

It did feel a bit more like 11a to me than 10c (Vogel gives Knack a 10c) so maybe the rating is correct.

Anyway, Knack is a great route which deserves more traffic. I'll have to go back for Rain Dance if they're not the same route.
By Murf
Jan 12, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Also think this is the same as Knack. I followed this, and found it quite hard on the blunt end.
By Richard Shore
Dec 2, 2012

According to Randy's guide, this route (Rain Dance) is only 5.8 and 0/5 stars. Alan must have got this description mixed up with Knack.

Admin request - can we clean up this confusing mess?
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 8, 2015

"...corridor cuts through the clump, providing the most direct route between Perpetual Motion and Star Wars Rock..."

if approaching Perpetual Motion from Star Wars Rock, the Knick & Knack corridor is not the most direct way up to Perpetual Motion, and involves much groveling through talus tunnels and squeeze slots. the steep upscramble across from Between A Rock And A Hard Place would take less time. the easiest way up to PM is actually on the SE side of the PM talus clump, up a broad rock ramp aiming diagonally to climber's left and up to PM without veering toward the K&K corridor

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