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Railroad Cut

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arachnophobia S 
Black Powder Express S 
Chosswrangler's Crack 
Chris Hanger S,TR 
Engineer 1872 T,TR 
Falling Finger, The S 
Fly Flies S,TR 
Footwork Footsmerk S,TR 
James Brown's Funky Railway Ride S,TR 
Memorial Route, The S 
Soul Train S 
Unsorted Routes:

Railroad Cut Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eli on Sep 23, 2015  with updates from Alan Emery
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The Low-Down 

The Newbury Cut was originally created in 1872 as a path for a train running through the Lake Sunapee area. The routes are bolted safely and nestled in the actual railroad cut, often parallel to each other. All the routes on these cliffs can be accessed from the top, and provided you have enough webbing you will be able to safely top rope everything in the Cut. Moss and small pebbles of loose rock can be a problem here primarily due to the fact that this location has previously been rarely climbed at, though it seems to be gaining some attention recently.

Due to the way the cut was created (blasted with black powder) many of the routes here are very strange feeling in terms of the way they climb and the direction of the holds. The Newbury Cut is best defined by it's blocky and directionally dependent holds that often require subtle body tension to get just right. Better said, it's pretty funky. The Cut has some excellent and definitely testy routes in the 5.10 range. Do not expect to be able to climb well here your first time through.

Due to the aspect, water table, and seasons you will find yourself mostly unable to enjoy climbing the routes on the left side of the Cut from April until it becomes drier in late August.

One word of warning: if you can not look (and climb) past contrivances on the bolted lines there are several routes that will feel too easy for the grade, and also very unsatisfying.

Getting There 

To reach the bolted lines, park as for the directions of "The Newbury Cut" and walk down a path on the left into the Cut.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Railroad Cut

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Railroad Cut:
Black Powder Express   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 45'   
Footwork Footsmerk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Soul Train   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Fly Flies   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 45'   
Chris Hanger   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Railroad Cut

Featured Route For Railroad Cut
Rock Climbing Photo: Ain't it funky now?

James Brown's Funky Railway Ride 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  New Hampshire : Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee : ... : Railroad Cut
This excellent and funky route is currently the farthest down bolted route from the trail on the right side of the wall. The route essentially starts on a big feldspar undercling. Awesome holds and underclings lead to a balancey and mind bending crux where everything seems to be in the wrong direction. Upon figuring this part out the rest of the route should be a breeze. Finish up on an easy slabby section with a nice bolt right in the middle of it. (This route could go at 5.10 or 5.10+, My abi...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Railroad Cut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice view of the first few climbs on the right sid...
Nice view of the first few climbs on the right sid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the cut from above.
Looking down the cut from above.
Rock Climbing Photo: James Brown Funky Railroad Ride?
James Brown Funky Railroad Ride?
Rock Climbing Photo: Further end of right side
Further end of right side
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side looking down after memorial route.
Left side looking down after memorial route.

Comments on Railroad Cut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alan Emery
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 30, 2017
I saw a set of anchors, not a bolted route, further down the right side after James Brown Funky Railroad Ride. Anyone know what this is called - grade? Going to try to hop on it today.
By Alan Emery
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 30, 2017
I totally agree with Eli's description of the climbing at Newbury Cut. From NC to Maine, this is the one area that does not feel like any other area I've climbed at. If you are up to testing your technique, or want to add more techniques to your skill set, you should climb here.

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