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Railroad Arete 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter & Scott Nykerk
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 28, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Railroad Arete at the Fountain Buttress, Glenwood ...


Easy climbing topped by a hard boulder problem characterize this route. It's the "direct" version of the Railroad Arete, as opposed to the easier version of the "Chicken Out" way.

Start by climbing the arete protected by two bolts. This is the crux of the "Chicken Out" version. Mantle onto the narrow ledge above the second bolt, a long sling may be helpful, and move right to a crack on the arete. Plug a #1 Camalot, make a few steep moves before the angle kicks back. Climb up this ramp which is protected by a wide crack. At the top of the ramp, plug a 2-inch cam before moving up to the steep, slightly overhanging, but short dihedral. A high bolt on the right side of the dihedral protects the boulder problem crux which is climbed with some stemming, palming and delicate footwork. Mantle on to the ledge and clip the anchor.


Left of the Railroad Tracks Cracks is an arete with two bolts. Same start as the Chicken Out Arete.


Gear to 3 or 4 inches and 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

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