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Rail Spike T 

Rail Spike 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: randy88fj62 on Oct 18, 2016

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Old climb done in the 70s? You will find french pi...

Description 

Remote adventure climbing for choss lovers:

The climb starts 15 feet below a railroad spike on a scree pile. Scramble up to the first railroad spike and then traverse right with good hand holds until you see the obvious second railroad spike above you.

Going up yields a railroad spike and a bolt. Once you pass both you'll gain a nice depression/pocket which makes for a good resting stance. Place a piece and traverse back left where the rock type changes. As you traverse to it you will find small solution pockets to place a small 00 metloius micro cam or similar.

Climb up past the old Charlet Moser Piton to a 2 bolt anchor. The second pitch is class 3/4 and ends at a bush. New webbing and a rapide are recommended for descent if you leave the first pitch anchor.

Protection 

Small cams up to a red BD #1. Specific pieces very helpful to the route include green .75 BD cam for a pocket at the first traverse, medium offset (metolius red/orange) for a pocket at the nice stance, then a 00 grey metolius cam for a solution pocket during the traverse.

Tricams would be wonderful for this climb and add a lot of security.


Photos of Rail Spike Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the crack. You start at the bottom l...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the crack. You start at the bottom l...

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