Raiders of the Lost Crag
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Meat and potatoes,scruffy crack climbing is what this route is all about. Head up an easy hand crack to the first roof (crux) where you engineer a way to jam or crimp your way out and over of it. Keep jamming away for a few moves, trend right, and establish yourself in the alcove where you'll need to again find a way to surmount the roof. Twenty more feet of scruffy climbing guard the cordalette slung tree that is your anchor.
Just right of Caroline Crocker and the Tipple of Doom.
Lots of hand sizes. BD #4 will be useful at the crux. A cordalette slung around two bomber trees with two biners made up the anchor as of 5/31/12. All were in good shape.
By Jeff McLeod
Aug 24, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
From its condition it seems this route doesn't get too much traffic, which is a shame because it was awesome. Cool roof crux with straight-in fist jams. Be careful at the top. It's nontrivial to get to the anchor (hand traverse), the top-out is on moss and crumbling sticks/bushes. There is a cordelette tied around a couple trees with biners but bring your own, it's moldy, old and stiff.
Oct 17, 2016
10-16-16: once you top out at the tree with the moldy old cord, look to climber's left for a much bigger tree that has a new cordelette and locking biner on it to rap from. you can put a directional on the small tree and then belay from the big one. creates some rope drag but more comfortable.
2nd the comment to be careful at the top hand traverse. there is a fully detached serving-platter sized flake that looks like it would be a good foot, but you might kick down onto belayer
great route that could use an anchor to eliminate the mossy shenanigans on top