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Raging Raven 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA--Patrick Purcell 1993
Page Views: 1,879
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Matt on the Raging Raven, Pitchoff, ADK.


Though this is Pitchoff's lone sport route among several Adirondack classics, Raging Raven is an absolute must for anyone looking to lighten their rack and have a grand time on a steep line of big holds.

Though, this route is listed as a sport route, a yellow Camalot behind a flake helps protect otherwise unprotected boulder moves off the deck.

Once you've cleared the frustrating initial moves, enjoy the steep and well-bolted face. Just don't make too much noise enroute to the anchor, or you may awaken the ravens' nest to your right!!


Down to the right of the Roaches on the Wall terrace.


Optional yellow Camalot at the start, then Quickdraws to the anchor.

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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 1, 2009

TR'ed this route today after not having climbed it in a while, and I'd like to say, for the record, that it's stout in the grade.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 26, 2011

An odd location for one of the best sport climbs I've ever been on.
By Eric Laflamme
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jun 17, 2014

The initial hold for the first protection is no more there. Should stick clip the first bolt. Maybe a bit harder now.
By JJ221
From: Morristown
Mar 11, 2015

I've never been on this climb but have done a good bit of climbing at this location. Road tripping one summer we had stashed our beer and sandwich fixings in a styrofoam cooler in the bed of my truck. As my friend Matt and I spent the day climbing at the cliff we took note of a vocal raven lustily cawing to his friends. We didn't think much of it until the end of the day hiking back out to my truck we noticed the cooler had been punched through and the lunch meat within had become raven food. Thankfully the beer was still fine and cold. We had been struck by a ...
By perrotr Perrot
From: Telluride
Jun 3, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Definitely harder than flying squirrels...more physical. The cruxes are 5.11 with solid 5.10 climbing in between. The starting undercling hold feels hollow/loose. I pulled a small loose triangular rock out of the lower crux gaston move today. It didn't change the hold, or the move. I doubt the route will be the same 10 yrs from now. Exfoliating rock at the base.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jun 10, 2015

Climbed this route today. The first major hold/block flexed and creaked when I pulled out on it. I thought it was going to break off but it didn't. If this thing breaks off, which it probably will, you could get hurt since it looks to be a decent size. After leading it, I climbed it a second time on TR to see if you can avoid this hold, and you can. You can also pull down on a hold on the top of it instead of pulling outward which should put less leverage on it. I was glad to have stick-clipped the first bolt!

Great pitch! With a bit of caution still very safe....
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
May 4, 2016

Tricky! But agreeably one of the best sport routes I've been on. I can't really speak to the integrity of the first few holds, some felt creaky, but I didn't really go into inspecting them much. All I can say is stick clip the first bolt and climb them while they last! Hopefully they stick around in time for me to come back and do the route clean ha.

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