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Unsorted Routes:

Raging Duck 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ivan Christianson, Rolf Rybak, Todd Guyn 1986
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Clint Valentine on Jul 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Raging Duck Topo

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow 5 bolts up a steep slab with two overlaps. Crux may be getting to the first bolt. Some may want to stick clip. A combination of technical slab and and two mantle/lock-off moves will see you to the chains on the Cat Crack ledge.

Location 

This route is the leftmost route at the Neat and Cool wall found just below and left the main face. This climb tops out on the Cat Crack ledge.

Protection 

5 quickdraws to chained anchors. Optional #1 or #2 may fit the first horizontal crack.


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By Mark van Eijk
Mar 2, 2015

Good fun, a slab for those who don't like slab, it's a bit steeper than usual but well-featured.

Unless you're very confident in your slab technique you'll want to protect the first horizontal break. A 0.75 camalot fits best here. There is also room for a 0.3 camalot at the upper horizontal.
By Ryan Lynne
Mar 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This climb originally had two bolts before it was retro bolted. Guidebook has it as 5.10b but I felt that it was more like a 5.10c.

This climb is now well protected, optionally bring some cams as mentioned in the previous post.

First crux is getting past the first bolt to the horizontal. Second crux is getting off the horizontal and onto the upper slab.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 27, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I got a perfect #2 camalot at the horizontal tucked in the back. And I also a nice yellow C3 in the upper crack between bolt 4 and 5 (not that it is terribly needed)l

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