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Ragged Edge T 
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Ragged Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Darin Berdinka, August 18, 2013
Season: July - September
Page Views: 5,374
Submitted By: Jennifer L on Oct 8, 2015

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Nick Roy leading on Ragged Edge.

Description 

This is a nice, moderate route that follows the eastern "ragged" edge on the north face of Vesper.

From the col, scramble/traverse a ledge system around to the north face.

The route consists of 6 pitches (5.5-5.7), with the cruxes at P5 and possibly P3. The variation (shown in blue on the topo) on P1 and P2 is worth doing (if there's not a queue for it already).


The following is copied from the first ascensionist's route description:

Approach Description

The trail fades out as you enter the basin between Vesper and Sperry Peaks. Cross the outlet of the lake and follow an obvious talus ridgeline up to a col between the peaks. The climb is accessed by a ledge system that cuts across the north face of Vesper at about 5800’ ft’ elevation and begins at a small notch overlooking the Vesper Glacier. Allow 3+ hours for the approach.

Walk out the ledge on steep exposed heather (snow until mid-late summer?). When you can’t walk any further either (A) scramble up over an obvious chockstone formed by a large, thin flake to a belay ledge or (B) as a variation backtrack a bit and figure out an exposed 3rd class traverse down and around the toe of a buttress before scrambling back up to an obvious and clean 5.6 layback crack (better start). The 3rd class slabs at mid-height on the first pitch could easily be accessed after climbing the lower half of the north face as well.

Original Start - Red Line

P1) Climb approximately 60’ ft of low-5th terrain to 3rd class slabs. Continue up the obvious flaky gully and arrange a gear belay just below a short overhanging wall (low-5th 170’ ft’).

P2) Traverse right on a long, thin ledge then a short gully to a fixed belay on the skyline (4th 60’ ft’).

Slightly contrived variation start with better climbing - Blue Line

P1) Climb a nice layback flake then a low-angle groove to 3rd class slabs. Traverse hard right then follow the highest grassy ledge system approximately 40’ to a gear belay below a faint white dyke splitting a slab (5.6 160’’ ft). Note that you can also reach this belay from the original start as well.

P2) Climb the dyke past three bolts to a thin ledge. Traverse right and up a short gully to a fixed anchor on the skyline (5.7 90’ ft’).

P3) Step right then traverse back left on positive edges towards the skyline. Find a bolt then continue up a nice arête protected by fixed pins. Arrange a gear belay atop a heather ledge (5.7 95’ ft’).

P4) Step right and climb steep, stacked blocks. Easy zig-zag cracks above lead to a fixed anchor. I aggressively trundled loose and semi-loose blocks off this pitch but some caution is still advised (5.7 95’ ft’).

P5) Step right again and climb straight up in an exposed position. At the second bolt traverse right 50’ ft to a fixed anchor on the skyline (5.7 80’ ft’).

P6) Follow the nice arête to a final touch of heather and the summit. (5.5 130’’ ft). Walk off to the southeast.


Resources:

Protection 

Gear: Doubles of .4 - 1, singles .2, .3, 2, 3, and a set of small nuts. The route is protected by a mix of gear, bolts, and pins. Pitch 5 required the most gear, as it is very exposed, but takes gear well.

Set up gear belays at the top of P1, P3. The rest of the pitches have fixed anchors for belays.


Photos of Ragged Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route from pitch 5 anchors.
Looking down the route from pitch 5 anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the last (and IMO best) pitch of the rou...
View from the last (and IMO best) pitch of the rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Roy enjoying the traverse right after pitch 4...
Nick Roy enjoying the traverse right after pitch 4...
Rock Climbing Photo: The ragged edge pitch (last pitch to the top).
BETA PHOTO: The ragged edge pitch (last pitch to the top).
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam at the moss carpet at the end of the route. Th...
BETA PHOTO: Sam at the moss carpet at the end of the route. Th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse on Ragged Edge
Traverse on Ragged Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: Early season (June 2016) conditions on the north s...
BETA PHOTO: Early season (June 2016) conditions on the north s...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down P3 from the belay
looking down P3 from the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back on P5 traverse from the bolted belay ...
looking back on P5 traverse from the bolted belay ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The slabby, low 5 first pitch
The slabby, low 5 first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down P1
looking down P1
Rock Climbing Photo: approach ledges for North Face routes
approach ledges for North Face routes
Rock Climbing Photo: Vesper Peak, North Face
Vesper Peak, North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo by Darin Berdinka
BETA PHOTO: Topo by Darin Berdinka

Comments on Ragged Edge Add Comment
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By Max Leitner
From: Seattle, Washington
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We followed the mp recommended gear. If I do it again I'd probably go with a single #1. The route never felt runout. There are plenty of places for pro and bolts where you want them. Only a handful of 5.7 moves on the route... I'd say most the climbing was 5.5ish.
By blakeherrington
Sep 12, 2016

Ragged Edge and True Grit (along with several other new moderate routes) are featured in a new full color PNW guidebook called Cascades Rock . The guidebook has route descriptions and topos, as well as driving, approach, and descent info. Available Here
By Skip Thompson
1 day ago
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We climbed it yesterday, in ideal conditions. The bolts were all exactly where you needed them, the pins exactly where they should be, and the route cleaned with loving care--you can see where so much work and attention has been paid. I made the fifth pitch much harder by missing the BOLT 20 feet up and over to the right on the climb and being obliged to run out a spooky section by staying too low. Making it far spookier! As a Gunks 5.8 leader, I'd say the 5.7 rating is spot on for this climb. It's all there, it's just hard.

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