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Radioactive Porksickle 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Lisenby, Will Hays, Ryan Cowan
Page Views: 1,622
Submitted By: Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an Awesome route, worthy of some traffic. The line itself is unmistakable from below. Bring two ropes - its been a while and my recollection of pitch & rappel lengths may be off - please comment if they are not right!
P1 5.12b/c: Start near a wide crack a few feet right of Weak Bosons. Clip a bolt to cross the face to the right. Follow a handcrack in a dihedral up to a diminishing left arching crack that eventually pinches to nothing. At the top of the arch get into the dihedral and try to get your breath back before the thin and technical dihedral crux - protected by some pretty small cams. A calculator and one of those brainstorm paper pads might help solve this crux. Save a yellow metolius TCU for the pod past the crux. Belay a little higher at the anchor on the ledge ~100'.
P2 5.13-: Tips & finger lock 12' up a steep, strenuous crack to an unlikely traverse to the right at the bottom of a splitter seam with some rectangular pods. Solid but small, 00 TCU(s) protect(s) the traverse. Once traversed use the arete and the crack, move up until you can get a finger into the widening seam, then square up and campus a few tips & finger locks to easier finger locking. Continue up the fingercrack through a couple of bulges to the business - a final bulge where the fingercrack leans left, gets slick, and overhangs the most. Ibuprofen is cheap, just do it. over the bulge, juke left at a flake/roof and get into the unlikely pod for a quick rest. A thin (Blue Metolius TCU) short 5.11 section is between you and the anchors. Good times!

Location 

10 feet right of Weak Bosons. A plaque is at the start..

Protection 

P1: Cams to #4 camalot, including 3 #3's and 3# 2's. Also a couple each TCU's, including 00, up to thin hands.
P2: Use P1 rack plus as many orange TCU/#1 friend/0.5 Camalots as you can get. You could ditch the camalots hand size & larger for P2.


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