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Rad Nad 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, September, 2002, FL: Al Swanson, Steve Gerberding, Bill Serniuk, May 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,443
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Topping out on Rad Nad....

A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>


Located about 50' left of Energy Crisis. Start in a gully, traverse right to a bolt. Follow 4 more bolts to a two bolt anchor. The traverse to the first bolt is a bit cruxy. Another crux is found at the third bolt. A fun climb!


5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos of Rad Nad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the cruxy move.    Photo by Al Swanson
Just after the cruxy move. Photo by Al Swanson
Rock Climbing Photo: "Rad Nad". Photo by Blitzo.
"Rad Nad". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Rad Nad". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Rad Nad". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Gordon on "Rad Nad". Photo by Blitz...
Todd Gordon on "Rad Nad". Photo by Blitz...

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun, but the grainy (and flaking) rock and bird shit detracts from the experience somewhat. With more traffic this would clean up nicely. The anchors are camo'd, so they are a bit hard to spot. They are a ways above the last bolt - above a horizontal crack and on a big ledge. The crux is definitely traversing into the first bolt, and the exfolating rock doesn't inspire confidence.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I led the route today with one of the FA team-members and followed the beta for the start. I have to say that the traverse over was quite crumbly.

Contrary to what the description says, the crux really seems to be maneuvering past the second bolt not really the third. I went right using a mantle & high step which was pretty solid.

On the way down I tried the crux moves using edges on the left which also works at about the same grade.

In addition, the start can be done straight up and is no harder (IMO) plus it's a better fall and the rock is cleaner.

Giant welded shuts for the anchor. Enjoy, I did.

By Murf
Oct 20, 2008

Crux is the start, coming in from the left is plain scary. Straight up is fairly hard, and needs traffic to solidify. Be aware this is no sport route, not that its being advertised as such. We all did the mantle move suze describes at the second bolt. It worth doing just to check out the amount of bird shit. It is truly epic!
By Russ Walling
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty good route and slowly but surely flaking off enough to be enjoyable. Getting to the first bolt seemed trivial at best. You early ascenters must have taken off all the really loose stuff before I got there. Crux is for sure at the second bolt, and there are a couple of nice pulls passing the last bolt on the faux headwall. Going from the last bolt to the anchors is super easy, but run out on some large grainy and suspect holds.
By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Feb 17, 2014

I found this route quality - great movement and protected enough to not flood your pants, but not quite a sport climb either. Heading straight up to the first bolt was challenging but doable, amazing to commit your feet and succeed. Cool moves on the lower section, and I admit to placing a tricam in the horizontal before the final bolt. Neat balance shifting on the way past to the anchors. I found this so much more fun than Zzzz, IMHO.
By Bob Gaines
Oct 12, 2015

FA(toprope): Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, September, 2002.

We named it The Big Apple

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