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Racist Fantasy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ed Rombach, Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 30, 2009

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Follow the black streak, cranking up on shallow pockets and/or reachy moves between them, for the first 4 bolts (crux). Then two good rest stances with more featured climbing between them, followed by a bolt-protected hand crack to the anchor.


This climb is on a black streak on the right side of a clean wall whose base is higher than most of the other routes (E Pluribus.. is also on this wall, to the left).

From a climb like Bananarama, go uphill and left, passing Earth Monster and 3 other climbs, to the highest wall with routes on it, just left of a left-facing corner.


8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Aug 30, 2009

We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.

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