REI Community
Rabenfels

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auerbacher Weg  S 
Ghettoblaster S 
Katalysator S 
Richard Holzberger Ged. Weg  S 

Rabenfels Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.64312, 11.59895 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 256
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 25, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The brief, yet incredibly mossy Normalweg, on the ...

Description 

This unique, free-standing pillar of limestone juts out of the forest like a watchtower, guaranteeing stellar position and exposure for any climber who seeks it out. It is best known for a pair of Wolfgang Gullich sport routes, but virtually all the lines on this formation offer excellent rock and movement.

This an old school area, with many routes originally established as aid lines as far back as the 1950s. It offers a more adventurous feel and secluded position than most of the surround clip-up crags. There are several moderate lines to the summit, including some that can be done in multiple pitches. With grades ranging from 5+ to 10, this crag really does have something for everyone.

There are routes on all sides of the tower, but most of the routes are on the exposed south face which bakes in the sun on clear days. The routes on the east and west faces are well-shaded by adjacent trees.

Getting There 

On the road from Auerbach to Neuhaus (or vice versa) lies a small yellow church, just a short distance north of Lehnershof. To reach Rabenfels, head east down an unmarked forest road that leaves the highway about 100 yds south of this church. Follow the road into the forest and park at the first road junction. There should be an olden wooden sign at the road junction pointing the way to Rabenfels. Follow the sign, walking up the left road fork, until the white tower appears on the left. A good trail switchbacks up the hill to the cliff.

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 22.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Rabenfels
Rock Climbing Photo: The west face of Rabenfels in profile.  The green ...

Ghettoblaster 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a  Europe : Germany : ... : Rabenfels
In 1986, after a winter spent writing the landmark Sportklettern Heute, Wolfgang Gullich left his mark on Rabenfels with his ascent of Ghettoblaster, hailed as the first upper-tenth grade route in Germany, and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time (Gullich had established Punks in the Gym, the first X+ or 5.14a precisely 51 weeks earlier). Prolific Frankenjura route developer Mylan Sykora said at the time of Gullich’s first ascent that Ghettoblaster “was a route on which no other...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Rabenfels Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The west face of Rabenfels, home to two steep Wolf...
The west face of Rabenfels, home to two steep Wolf...
Rock Climbing Photo: The south face of Rabenfels.  The lower half is ob...
The south face of Rabenfels. The lower half is ob...
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer look at the southeast aspect.
A closer look at the southeast aspect.
Rock Climbing Photo: The southeast face of Rabenfels from near the logg...
The southeast face of Rabenfels from near the logg...

Comments on Rabenfels Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About