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R2D2 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Greg Barnes & John Hovell, 10/06
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Brandy Hartley on Sep 27, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There's a tricky sequence on the beginning of the route. You have to find the secret pockets on this steep start. It's a bit nerve-wracking to get to the visible bolt ~ 20ft up. It could be easy to deck onto the ledge. Good spotting is recommended.

Knobs and pockets dominate until you reach a nice-sized ledge. Go up and under the roof of the black bulge to find the 2-bolt anchor. It's a bit hidden up there.

Location 

Furthest left and a bit around the corner from Black Widow, you have to head up to a higher terrace with a flattish area near the base of the climb. The leader has to step up on a ledge above the belayer to start.

Protection 

There's a bolt on the face and bring gear good for pockets. 2-bolt anchor at the top of the climb.


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By Ben Townsend
Sep 27, 2015

I got a bomber small cam in a somewhat hidden pocket halfway to the first bolt, taking the sting out of the committing first section.

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