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Rupley Towers
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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 4,154
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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John Henry working steel....


On the second tower from the North (Tower B in EFR's book), just to the right of a chimney (route: R2, 5.6+) you will see a ledge about 30 feet up with a tree and a two-bolt belay. (1) Climb up flake past left facing corner under a bolt to this ledge. (2) Climb straight up left facing corner to crack, then face to top of tower. You can descend to the back side easily with one rappel. If you need to return to the base of the route, you can probably BARELY reach the belay ledge from pitch 1 with a 60m rope. The second pitch is exactly 30m. Be careful, and knot the ends of your rope if you rap the route!


Standard Rack. There is one bolt on the first pitch protecting the traverse. The last 30 feet of the route offers scant protection.

Photos of R-1 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 of R1
P2 of R1
Rock Climbing Photo: R1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Peterson leading the final pitch
Eric Peterson leading the final pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also b...
Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Graham getting started
Graham getting started
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the final crux
Entering the final crux

Comments on R-1 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the first pitch is the .8 the rest is fairly easy .7 rap off west or north
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

my bad guys...i was talking about R-3 Ignore those comments above... Solid .8+..... NOVICE .8 leaders watch that move past the bolt on P1! You will feel gripped so make sure you protect in horizontal crack before reaching for bolt on face!! My advice is if you cannot clip the bolt on that face from the stance then get good pro in crack ( maybe two pieces) and just climb past the bolt cause stopping once you've started out on that face would be an easy way to take a whipper. It's up to you! enjoy!
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 19, 2009

Awesome classic.. a must do at Mt. Lemmon
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Apr 9, 2010

I love this routed!! one of my first gear leads I'm really excited on it.
By David Lammers
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 2, 2011

Coordinates in UTM:
12 South 0526927 by 3581197 Datum WGS 84
By Spiro
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun, bolt is in odd spot and spins. I would put gear in crack.
By Ryan Petronella
Apr 1, 2015

Can someone clarify P1 for me? Just lead both pitches yesterday and for the first pitch I followed the topo and went around left, clipping the bolt on the left. However there's a bolt to the right that suggests an alternative route straight up, although it looks pretty run out to the belay ledge for P2. Is there a right way? Thanks
By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 1, 2015

If you went the way highlighted in this Photo, then you went the standard way.
By Lana dude
Jan 7, 2016

can rap the route with a 60M using bolted intermediate station
By Paul Zander
From: Bern, CH
Mar 26, 2016

I did a straight up variation to the first pitch which made more sense to me. There's a newer looking bolt about 4 feet right of the old bolt. Clip that, pull a tough move (might be 5.9?) onto a stance. Above looks runout, but I got a great green alien, and there are other options. Felt safe to me and no drag.

The finish to this climb is amazing - steep climbing up an exposed arete with positive holds and great gear.

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