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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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Quo Vadis 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, Lynn Smith 1982
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 12, 2004

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  • Description 

    The Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary defines Quo Vadis as, "Whither are you going?" That's appropriate, since I walked back and forth for 15 minutes before deciding where the route goes. Rossiter's description is pretty vague. Although this is an obscure route, it's worthwhile once you find it. Good climbing on a nice line, mostly moderate with a couple of crux moves, on pretty good rock.

    Start:100' or so above the Allosaur amphitheater the trail switchbacks against the cliff about 25' below a huge boulder against the base of the cliff. Quo Vadis starts at the low angle right facing corner where the trail meets the cliff. See photo below. Odarodle climbs between Quo Vadis and the huge boulder.

    Since I was self-belaying, and rope drag was therefore not a problem, I linked the two pitches. With a belayer that could be difficult because of multiple transitions from low angle to steep and back and a short traverse right up high.

    P1: Climb the low angle slab past two small trees--it's nicer to climb right of the trees--to a vertical headwall. Get gear at the base of the wall then climb at about 12' of about 5.5 with no gear to a small tree (sketchy nut a little below, but not necessary. Step right and up onto a slab. Follow an easy groove past a tiny tree to another headwall and a wide crack. Place your big piece high in the crack or a smaller piece lower. One of the crux moves follows. Pull over the headwall onto a slab below an overhang. I used a hidden hold out right at the lip of the slab. Pull over the overhang using amazing holds onto another slab. Place one or more good directionals and traverse right to a large tree.

    P2: Traverse back left on the slab to a wide crack. Place a big cam up high and make another crux move up and right to below yet another slab. I did this as a layback. Up the easy slab and then traverse right at the red band to a left facing corner through the red band. Up easily to a large tree. You could rap from here in two single rope rappels (maybe one?), but you'll need to bring slings and rings. Continue to the top. If you're going to descend via the Allosaur raps, you can exit right a short distance from the top and fantastic views of the west side of Redgarden.

    Descent:Scramble easily climber's right to the Allosaur rappels or left (more difficult) to the Verschneidung raps.


    Double cams from micro to #2 Camalot, 1 #3 and 1 #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend). 1 set nuts. Lots of slings, mostly long.

    Comments on Quo Vadis Add Comment
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    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Feb 6, 2005

    I see that there's also a "Quo Vadis" on Redgarden on the south face of the Lower Ramp. That's strange because both Quo Vadis's were done by Mike Brooks, the Redgarden one in 81 and the West Ridge one in 82. Why would he give two Eldo routes the same name? Apparently the Redgarden Quo Vadis is hard to find. See the discussion under Vertical Smile.
    By Christa Cline
    Aug 7, 2006

    The first pitch is nice climbing. The second pitch other than the opening crux move which was more difficult because of slippery lichen was not worth doing. Lots of loose rock in the V-slot/dihedral. Next time I'll skip going all the way to the top but rather climb up to the red band in one pitch, then traverse way right (80 ft) to a big rap tree . If you go to the top and downclimb to the rap tree, I suggest to stay roped up. There is one rather exposed move and lots of loose rock. From the tree, rap 80 ft south-west to another (small) tree, from there a 60m rope gets you down.
    Standard rack is more than sufficient, no doubles required, # 3.5 BD for wide crack on P2 as per above description.

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