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The Parking Lot Wall
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100% Columbian S 
A Week With Pete S 
Cafe au Lait S 
Centerfold T 
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 
Curly for President S 
Dead Sea Equestrian S 
Easily Amused S 
Easily Aroused S 
Egg McMeadows S 
Espresso S 
Glory Jean's S 
Idiot's Deluxe S 
Juan Valdez S 
Mr. Coffee S 
Percolator S 
Quinn/Callaghan S 
Red Sea Pedestrian S 
Rise and Shine S 
Rubicon S 
Rumor Has It T 
Shealyn's Way S 
Shemp Lives S 
Squeeze My Lemon S 


YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 2,105
Submitted By: D.Quinn on Sep 27, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Geoffrey Kinsey on what he thinks is Quinn/Callagh...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Nice featured schist and quartz face climbing once you get past the (easy) often wet gully start. Could be still quite sharp, so keep your weight on you feet as much as possible!


Between Chloe's Breakfast Special and Shealyn's Way


11 bolts to L.O.'s

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2016
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 3, 2008

50ft... any other description of it aside from "nice"? <3
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can I get more of a description of this route why did it get a PG-13 rating?
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 28, 2008

first off i agree with matt and jeff... i would love to hear more about this route. and second in between those routes seems like its really crammed in there
By losbill
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Regarding description, my main contribution is that the route is sharp! Got on it shortly after it was put up and my hands felt as if they had been punctured by a thousand pins when I was done. I assumed it would mellow out after a few years of traffic, doesn't seem to have happened, although I haven't been on it in two years. Sure makes you think about your feet since you don't want to put much pressure on the hands.

The crux for me is pretty close to the top at a bit of a bulge with no "jugs" above it. The temptation is to reach up and crank on small sharp holds, pain; or even to mantle, never did it but would really be painful!!! For me the key is to balance up with the hands and focus on the feet and "walk" up through this bit.

Regarding crowding; I feel it is a worthwhile, independent line with a character distinct from Chloe's or Shealyn's and a nice addition to this face.

Regarding the PG13 rating, I won't second guess the FAist but personally felt it is a well protected, nicely bolted pitch.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thank you very much for in information on this route it has sparked my interest for sure.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jan 4, 2009

thanks for the description it will definitely make me look a little closer at the line
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 5, 2009

when i first climbed at rumney between 15 and 20 years ago everything at the meadows and parkinglot wall was as sharp as losbill describes...

Thats one good thing about the over crowding, my hands dont bleed as much when i climb there thanks to the traffic...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 5, 2009

Thanks for the description! :)
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Mar 24, 2009

I'm not sure why DQ put it as pg 13 either.. there are plenty of bolts it seems.. even a few too many at the bottom. Great long warm up. Similar to Cloe's but harde. I also have 13 bolts written in my book.
By Adam Sadowski
From: Watertown, MA
Sep 19, 2009

Not sure if the 50 ft refers to the climb above the mossy ramp section or the whole climb but if Chloe's is 70 ft in here this should be the same, if not more.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The anchors are 80 feet from the ground. I climbed it today with a fat 50m rope and lowered. Just enough rope to safely make it.
By S. Neoh
Oct 11, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I counted 11 bolts en route so 13 draws total. A lot. One can skip a few if you are solid at the grade. Nice, long route. Not sure why I waited till today to climb it for the first time! My loss. For me, the crux is near the top and is exactly one move. The rest of the climb is easier and not as interesting as its neighbor to the left. Still a worthwhile route to climb more than once. I will be back.
By N Nelsen
From: Thornton, NH
Sep 14, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An enjoyable route, extremely well protected with an excess of bolts. The high crux clipping the last bolt felt more like 5.8 to me, the rest was easy 5.7 climbing. Definitely recommend if the route is dry, definitely not as sharp as it was in the past.

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