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Keyboard of the Winds
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Quien Sabe Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 4 August 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,468
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2009

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This right-facing dihedral is the first pitch.

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This route ascends the NW arete or ridge of the unknown tower between Tower One and The Dark Tower. Approach from Glacier Gorge as for Tower One and break right once even with the base of the buttress. A clean, right-facing dihedral is obvious on the right and is the crux of the route. The climb over-all is reminiscent of the Keyhole Ridge on Long's Peak, though the dihedral is somewhat more difficult. Above the dihedral a short steep pitch leads to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge crest south to the summit. Pretty good outing, but way remote.

The west side of the tower is another story. Two long dihedrals face each other to create a narrow inset that tops out at the crest of the ridge. The left-facing corner on the right of the inset looks to be worth the long approach. Another similar inset splits the face to the right. Recommendation: bring a rope and a partner.

To escape from the summit, ooze down a slot then traverse a narrow ledge southeast to the notch between the summit and two big "rabit ears" spires. Return to Black Lake as for Tower One.


This route ascends very obvious features on Tower Two (or the "Light Tower"), which is the prominent buttress between Tower One and the Dark Tower in the Keyboard of the Winds.


Bring thin crack gear to 2 inches for the dihedral.

Photos of Quien Sabe Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo looks up the final pitch to the summit ...
BETA PHOTO: This photo looks up the final pitch to the summit ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a panorama of the Keyboard of The Winds as...
BETA PHOTO: This is a panorama of the Keyboard of The Winds as...

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