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Quickie in the Molar 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon 1988
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on May 27, 2011

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Traverse in from the left past a small gear placement and clip a very high first bolt (which can be stick-clipped or equipped by lowering from Muscle Belly). Unlock the technical and strenuous crux between the 2nd and third bolt then stay on your feet for micro-crimping past one more bolt and a moderate runout to the Muscle Belly chains.

A second pitch continues straight up and encounters another 5.12a crux but we did not climb it. The latest New River guidebook notes that the top pitch is not equipped with anchors.

The first pitch is a great little route in its own right and will stay dry in the rain.

Location 

Left of the Muscle Belly arete on Fern Buttress.

Protection 

4 bolts + anchors and optional small gear to reach the first bolt.


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