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Quick and Dirty 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Conor Dysinger
Season: spring, fall, summer
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: ConorD on May 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Andrew giving it the lead

Description 

This route is not really part of the same wall, but is located at the same parking lot. Climb the finger crack up the short wall by the cattle guard, placing many small cams, make sure to back them up. Climb is a little loose, hopefully it will clean up with a little traffic. There to do if it looks appealing to anyone.

Location 

This route is located about 50 ft back downhill from the yellow cattle guard. Look for the finger crack on the small fin on the east side of the road.

Protection 

small cams and stoppers, chain anchors


Photos of Quick and Dirty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An inspiring choss pile right below the climb
BETA PHOTO: An inspiring choss pile right below the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew leading the Quick and Dirty
Andrew leading the Quick and Dirty

Comments on Quick and Dirty Add Comment
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By Dylan Schmeelk
May 29, 2012

Saw the anchors for this climb yesterday and thought it looked like an easy 10. Fun climb, but after climbing it I thought it was a 10c or 10d. Maybe my fingers are not the right size, but I have climbed easier 10c trad routes than this.

I would be very interested to hear from others who have lead this route if you think the rating is a bit low or I need more finger crack practice.

If you are not a solid 10 trad leader you may want to proceed with caution.

The rock quality is pretty good, but there are a couple loose blocks near the top and above the anchors. One less after yesterday. I pulled a 2ft X 3.5ft block off just above and to the right of the anchors.
By Harrison Schutt
From: Missoula, MT
May 22, 2017

I did not lead it, but would agree with Andrew by giving it a PG13 rating due to choss. A surprisingly fun climb, just a little hairy because of the rock
By Andrew Demaree
From: Missoula MT
May 23, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

My fingers are on the larger side (0.5 is a perfect finger lock) and I would call it 5.9+ PG-13. It's a short climb with good feet, solid jams, and supplemental crimp rails, so not physically demanding, but should definitely be climbed delicately. I pulled a lot of rock of this thing and there is definitely a lot more still up there, so probably not the best for new leaders. That being said, the gear is solid and easy to place and the climbing was surprisingly fun. With a little more traffic it would probably turn into a clean 5.9+.

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