|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||George Bracksieck on Aug 27, 2013|
|Comments on Quiche on a Leash||Add Comment|
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By Steve Annecone
Sep 6, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|A very nice and adventurous line that doesn't seem to get climbed much. I thought there were numerous 5.9 and 5.10 cruxes throughout on steep rock, with the hardest moves probably being the lieback about 25 feet up. There was a bit of loose rock in places, but it was easily avoided and didn't really detract from the quality of the climb. There's a scary-looking chockstone block about 35-40 feet up the route, but it is surprisingly stable... my partner couldn't get it to budge after kicking it hard. Plenty of exposure and excellent position! The "eye of the needle" finish is awesome 5.7 or 5.8 squeeze. Suggest bringing a double set of hand- and fist-sized cams.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scary chockstone wedged by crumbling arete was pretty ready to go. Going, going, gone.... We cleaned it. Maybe 100+ lbs?
The low crux is a bit dirty right now on the feet. Multiple small nuts and cams are at waist or higher and more or less keep you on TR there. The higher cruxes are more interesting, less slick, and also maybe 10a. Pretty good route, overall.