Quicabo Rocks Rock Climbing
Just north east of Luanda, very tropical area. The rocks are surrounded by tall grass and some jungle. Listed routes here are safe, but there are other rocks in the area that definitely warrant checking up on the status of landmines. All are well-featured granite domes/towers with a year or two worth of first ascents still waiting...
North out Luanda, past Cacuaco (refinery), follow the road to Caxito. When exiting Caxito to the East, take the northern road (if you cross the Dande river AFTER Caxito, you went too far). The northern road passes several rock quarries then continues about 35km to the town of Quicabo. At Quicabo there is a fork in the road with a small, rundown church in the middle of the fork. Take the left fork and follow it past the police station, then trend right past administrative building (they are always pink). The road passes a soccer field on the left (it's quite straight here as it used to be the airfield for Quicabo), at which point the road becomes dirt. Follow the dirt road for just over 4 km to the village of Berila (there is a shack/'bar' on the left side of the road when you get to Berila). Turn right between two rows of houses in Berila and follow a dirt track for another 2km to the village of Quinhanda (also written as Quiuanina). This is where it gets tricky. The best strategy is to print out the satellite imagery off of google maps to find your way to the village and beyond. There is just no easy way to describe how to negotiate the network of trails, tracks and open areas. The dot on the map is for the parking area just after the village. Make sure to stop and speak to the village chief before going to park. Failure to do so will likely result in being greeted with machete-wielding villagers who are worried you are there to steal their crops. At this point we have a good relationship with the soba (Manuel M. Cassule). We provided them with a bunch of water filters from wavesforwater.org
, so they are pretty stoked about having outside visitors. Nevertheless, not many cars show up here (actually none), so your presence will definitely generate curiosity and require explanation.
Weather station 25.5 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Quicabo Rocks
East Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Africa
: ... : Torre Mingos N'zoua
Pitch 1: Follow zig-zag crack to small ledge. Follow 3 bolts past thin crack to another ledge. Follow slab with 3 removable bolt holes (1/2") to 2 bolt belay below grassy ledge. 5.10a (35m)Pitch 2: Scamper up ramp above ledge, hustle over a small overhang (#4 Camelot is only pro) to 2 bolt belay on the summit. 5.7 (15m)Descent: 2 rappels (for rope mgmt.), which can be done with single 70m rope....[more] Browse More Classics in International