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Questionable Hummus 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Charles Ciaffone, Julia Dale Lockamy, Megan de Matteo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Charles Ciaffone on Apr 13, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the belay stance at the pro line...


This is an alternate end to the Unknown 5.9. The crux is the steep slab just below the shallow roof.


This route ascends the crack where the trail meets the rock. Follow the crack up. At the top of the crack, continue up on slab and eyebrows to the obvious crack in the shallow roof. Pull up left of the crack and then move right to the belay rings.


Standard rack to #1.5 tri-cams. Bolt belay on the ledge below the bulge. Plenty of eyebrows that will take cams, tri-cams, and even some mid-size nuts.

Photos of Questionable Hummus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack, overprotected in preparation for a lead...
BETA PHOTO: The crack, overprotected in preparation for a lead...

Comments on Questionable Hummus Add Comment
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By Charles Ciaffone
Apr 13, 2016

If it turns out I was not the first, please let me know and I will update.
By Charles Ciaffone
May 31, 2016

We finished the first pitch of this route at the belay rings below the bulge. I'm looking to add a second pitch but will try to avoid the 5.10 move on Unknown Face Right.
By Mike Reardon
Jun 7, 2016

Just a heads up, this is a left hand variation finish to "unknown 5.9 PG-13", not "unknown face right". It's confusing, I know. The 5.6 entrance crack pictured was likely one of the first starts for climbers here in the 80's/90's but I think most break right at the top of it to gain the anchors.
By Charles Ciaffone
Jun 7, 2016

Thanks. I would really have been surprised if no one had climbed that crack before, since it is just sitting there waiting to be plugged with gear and feet.
By Charles Ciaffone
Jun 9, 2016

I'm looking forward to your book on the area, with topos and pictures.

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