REI Community
(q) Sunkist Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burning Down the House T 
Cheap Day Return T 
Jigsaw T 
Question of Balance T 

Question of Balance 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson and Bill Antel, 1973
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Begin with the hairline crack on the far left side of the wall. Climb the crack (10a), then diagonal up and right (10c) as soon as possible to a bolt. From the bolt wander up the face (easy runout) to the top.

Like all of the routes on this face, the climbing is characterized by small, very polished holds.

Take care on the summit. There is an unbelievable amount of small loose stuff around just waiting to be knocked off.

Location 

Far left side of the face, starting at a very thin crack.

Protection 

Small gear up to 2". A tieoff (1/2" webbing) can also be used to sling a tiny horn/flake.


Comments on Question of Balance Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 30, 2015

A couple good opportunities for variations (like everything on Suicide) here. A fun, albeit short no hands slab traverse exists moving back left before you reach the top of the blocks and the normal slab finish.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 30, 2015

Also like many on Suicide one can only top rope this with a 70m, and the belayer will be belaying about 1/3 the way up the gully.
By Tradiban
Oct 10, 2016

A fall from the crux would put you on the ground unless you climb further up the crack place a piece high, then downclimb back to the right angle ramp up to the bolt. Alternatively just climb up the left diagonal crack then take a undercling crack to join the route above the bolt. 10a this way and much better protected.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About