Questando la via sin arboles
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BETA PHOTO: Questando la via sin arboles (Qwesting the route w...
From the base of the south face, walk down left to the toe of the dome, then walk up left 150 feet along the base of the west side. There is a huge left-facing dihedral (with a dramatic hand crack on its right wall) 100 feet above the ground. This is NOT the climb. Look for a smaller left-facing dihedral, with a few trees, 50 feet left of the huge dihedral, and also about 100 feet above the ground. Start directly below this smaller dihedral.
1. Clip a piton 10 feet off the ground, cross some small rounded overhangs, and continue up the crack that leads to the smaller dihedral. Avoiding all the trees in the dihedral, go up the right side of the dihedral, following ramps and a thin crack to a 2-piton belay. 160 feet, 5.9. (If you arrive at a tree with rappel slings, you are on the rappel route, not the climbing route.)
2. Step up on friction and continue up small cracks. After a wide section, go up and gradually left, eventually passing 3 bolts, to a comfortable belay at 2 pitons. 160 feet, 5.10.
3. Up past a bolt, then up and slightly right to the base of a steep, long, vertical crack with pitons. Climb this crack. At its top, look right for a small belay ledge with one bolt and a slingable horn. 100 feet, 5.10+.
4. Traverse left along a thin crack, then past 2 bolts, to a short, overhanging challenge. 20 feet above this challenge is a sloping belay ledge with 1 bolt on the right wall of a left-facing dihedral. 80 feet, 5.10.
5. Walk left to a gnarly tree to gain access to the finger crack splitting this smooth face, which is prominently visible from the approach trail. Climb the crack. From its end, edge up (generally left) past 2 bolts to a good ledge. 110 feet, 5.10.
6. Follow the left arête to the top of the ridge. 100 feet, 5.4.
This climb is on the far left (west) side of the dome. Pitches 2, 3, and 5 are visible from the approach trail. Pitch 5 ascends the clean face with a sharp left edge at the upper left corner of the dome.
Descent: The usual: Scramble northeast along the boulder-strewn ridge, then walk down east through the forest. Caught in the rain? Large trees on alternate sides of the climb provide a 2-rope rappel route to the ground. (Rappel stations are marked Ron the photo; often you cant see the slings on these trees from the climb.)
Carry a full rack for cracks from 1/4 inch to 3 inches.