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Quest for Fire 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Season: all
Page Views: 1,343
Submitted By: Mikel Cronin on Nov 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Resting on the huge holds after the burly start

Description 

Stick clip first two bolts. Great crux at bottom. This route has been extended as of fall 2006. The block that all the weak minded people used at the top is now gone. You must stay on face and continue up the black face.

Location 

2nd route from left

Protection 

bolts


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By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Nov 14, 2006

Ha. How hard is the extension?
By Mikel Cronin
Nov 14, 2006

Greg
I did not climb the extension yet just cleaned and equipped it. I think it may add a letter for sure, crimpers and slopers! Then the Quest extension will go to the same anchors. It follows the prow. I do not think it will add any grade just 30 more feet on super good rock.
By N. Guimond
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is an excellent route. The bottom is VERY strong and I had to aid through the bear hug move. The rest is beautiful and sustained with big holds and excellent movement. Not as reachy as maximum overdrive. Well bolted. I hang-dogged up it on lead, but another one of our party onsighted it. It was probably 5.12a/b based on his abilities. Highly recommended!
By Jon Marek
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Jul 2, 2011

Super Fun! The bottom crux has a real OUCH factor on tiny crimping under-clings, best to get it done the first try.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

For the 2nd bolt, you may want to consider putting 2 quickdraws together. With a normal draw, the rope gets pinched on an edge that isn't that sharp, but it still will put wear on your rope if you are falling and/or working the bottom moves. A longer style draw (like the petzl spirit) prevents the rope from getting pinched, but now that edge can actually open the gate of the rope end biner! 2 quickdraws put together (biner/dogbone/biner/dogbone/biner) works best! Food for thought...
By Franck Vee
Aug 5, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Well, the bottom crux felt really, really, really stiff for 12a. So I gave the route 12b because of that part. I'm thinking about other 12a cruxes in Spearfish that I have attempted (Argmageddon, TLOTM, Black Hole...) and nothing is close to that in difficult IMO.

Once the crux is done however, it's just fun 11+ climbing on great pockets. I can't imagine linking however, the crux at the start is already super taxing and the route doesn't let up above.

I loved that after all those pockets, the last moves to the anchors are in a completely different style, kind of just checking if you remember how to grab a side pull after all those pockets.

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