Queen's View- Standard Route
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Jeff's hand placed sawed off pin placement on pitc...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This starts on the side away from Tranquility Tower, the east face. It begins up the left side of a slab.
Pitch 1- Climb up past a pin, then to a large ledge with fixed pins. Don't expect much gear on this pitch,. but it is rather easy.
Pitch 2- begin up pins to an incipient seam. We nailed, and later constructively scarred two baby angles placement on this pitch. With the use of small offset micronuts this should go clean. Or with a big stick clip this could easily go clean. Exit onto sandy slabs and an anchor on the summit.
Descent- Rappel the route with double 60 meter ropes.
Walk past Feeding the Rat on Tranquility and directly towards Queen's View. The route starts on the opposite side.
GO BIG and go clean- 4+ draws, and a single set of cams from blue alien to #2 camalot. 1 set stoppers, offset brassies would be best.
Brad wondering were I supposed to get gear on pitc...
By Jeff Widen
Jan 17, 2012
Ben K and I did this route - fun, easy tick. It does go clean (Thanks Brad and Matt for the nice constructive scarring job!), but bring a 1" or 1-1/4" angle, or large hook, for hand-placing in two old drill holes near the top of the seam. Assuming there was a bolt here previously, a replacement is probably justified due the soft rock.
By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Dec 2, 2014
A single 70m rope is enough to rappel down with. A brown tricam worked for the holes towards the top, but it was iffy! I was desperately wishing I had a #3 camalot instead of a #2 for the placement above the holes.