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Queen's Guillotine S 
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Queen's Guillotine 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Scott, Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Wing Ng (2006)
Season: Morning Shade Until 3pm
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Apr 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Queen's Guillotine


Queen's Guillotine shares two bolts with Two Kings And A Pawn before breaking right. Pull moderate moves through seemingly-dubious rock to obtain an alcove rest. Follow a left-leaning dihedral as it gets progressively more difficult. Traverse and surmount the guillotine using fractured, somewhat gritty holds for a memorable finish.

In the parlance of the crag, Queen's Guillotine is a royal bastard. It has characteristics of a classic route: a cool, leaning dihedral and a wild, unique finish. In many regards it doesn't differ that much from its acclaimed neighbor Two Kings And A Pawn. Despite its potential this route is damned by its DNA: questionable rock and inconsistent difficulty.

It should be noted that nothing more than small pebbles came off during my ascent. Hence the rock may be better than it looks but it certainly caused me to move with trepidation.


Queen's Guillotine is located on the Queen formation. To reach the base of the route scramble up low angle rock to reach a belay bolt. The first two bolts are shared with Two Kings And A Pawn, which branches left. Queen's Guillotine branches right.


11 bolts to ring anchors. A shoulder length sling is recommended on the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag. The belayer may want to consider wearing a helmet.

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