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Queen Victoria

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Regular Route T 
Route To Nowhere S 

Queen Victoria Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.87486, -111.73699 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,752
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2006
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Queen Vic is an attractive, pointy tower sitting on the ridgeline north of Schnebly Hill Road. This is a wonderful, mostly easy, outing that gets you to a nice summit overlooking Midgley Bridge, Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.

Getting There 

The approach is done from a parking spot on the left 1.9 miles up Schnebly Hill Road. There is a picnic table at the right spot.

Hike downhill past the picnic table to a good trail, take the trail left (west) and hike down to a big wash on the right. Hike and scramble up this wash (sometimes in and out of the wash, but basically in) directly up to the ridge above with Queen Victoria and Pointed Dome. Follow your nose up to the ridge and the east side of Queen Vic and access to the routes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.7 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Queen Victoria

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Queen Victoria:
Regular Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Queen Victoria

Featured Route For Queen Victoria
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of the route.

Route To Nowhere 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : Queen Victoria
A fun little route to do if you've got time after finishing Queen Vic. Pretty much sport, but I think I placed 1 small cam near the start....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Queen Victoria Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic stitch from the top of Queen Victoria......
Panoramic stitch from the top of Queen Victoria......
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch1- Eye bolts Pitch2- Bolts Rappel anchors Pit...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch1- Eye bolts Pitch2- Bolts Rappel anchors Pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pointed Dome on the left and Queen Victoria on the...
BETA PHOTO: Pointed Dome on the left and Queen Victoria on the...

Comments on Queen Victoria Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2015
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 20, 2010
Seems like the picnic table mentioned may be gone if the parking area described in here is the first one that is a turn-around (with an island) 1.9 miles from where the dirt road begins. That said, we parked at the pulloff before the turn-around where there is a cave-like waterfall visible from the road. From here, hike right and up around the 'cave' then make a hard left back up over the ridge and down into the wash. From there, follow the wash up a series of waterfalls of increasing height. About 60' after you pass about an 8' waterfall that you have to scramble around the right side of, you will be at a trail crossroads. Make a left here and follow all the way up... heart-shaped rocks will guide you in (you'll see). When you reach the slab (trail ends) just smear up and follow your nose up to the ridge way right of Queen Vic and walk in from the far right. This will put you at the base of the Regular Route.
By Tyler Williams
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 13, 2011
A fun, easier, scenic, but longer approach is to approach as per epitaph - and hike to the saddle between flying buttress and moose's butte from east, then hike along a nice trail on the north side of moose's butte. It's probably a mile longer, but there's no scrambling up washes and the terrain is really awesome.
By Jeff Peabody
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 31, 2012
Video I made from a nice evening with the Queen.

Queen Victoria
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2013
Jeff good work, great music, and mooning the tourist helicopter is just fantastic....
By Ryan Z
Nov 17, 2013
^ that is exactly what is supposed to happen when you get buzzed by choppers, thanks for sharing the video!
By Jay Collins
Oct 23, 2014
I'm pretty sure this is down a "4x4 Only" unpaved road, so if you took a tiny rental car you are probably going to have to walk.
By Lindsey Western
From: Flagstaff
Feb 4, 2015
My buddy and I got our rope stuck on queen vic. Please either leave it there or let us know you have it. We're going to try to retrieve it asap. Thanks a bunch! -lindsey
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 22, 2015
every time i'm near queen vic I always see this splitter looking crack on the southwest side of the spire. anybody know if this is a route? I think I may try to get an FA of it this weekend if it hasn't already been climbed
By Zach Harrison
Apr 24, 2015
The SW crack line is a Tim Toula route. It's supposed to be a good 5.10. I haven't climbed it though. Given the FA team, it might be spicy! Have fun.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Apr 27, 2015
Nick & Zach, I have done the Toula route. It is a little spicy and IMHO not very good. If I were ever to do it again it would probably be by top-rope. However that is unlikely because frankly that route kind of sucks.
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 27, 2015
damn, that's a bummer. it looks pretty sweet
By Gregory Cooper
From: San Diego
Jun 2, 2015
Does anyone know what the road condition are like. I only have a Honda Civic and was wondering if it would be suitable to get to the trail head for this climb?
By Paul Zander
From: Neuchatel, CH
Jun 3, 2015
Greg - A civic won't make it all the way to the best parking spot, but you'll be able to get close, I'd guess plan on adding 20-30 minutes to the approach.
By Gregory Cooper
From: San Diego
Jun 3, 2015
Thanks Paul. I'm a fast walker so it shouldn't a problem.

As a head up I'll be climbing the Regular Route tomorrow 5/4/15, me and a parter, and on 5/12/15 with a three person team of less experienced climbers (if tomorrow goes well and I feel it's appropriate.)

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