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Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area
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Eclipsed S 
Ecstasy S 
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Queen of the Heartbreaks S 
Sheila T 

Queen of the Heartbreaks 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Shaddow Ayala
New Route: Yes
Season: you can lower with an 80m rope if you use the belay below the first bolt.
Page Views: 4,566
Submitted By: Shadow Ayala on Jul 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Nearing the crux at the end


Scramble up to the ledge just below 'Sheila'. Use the belay bolt to protect the easy moves to the first bolt and deal with immediate arete cruxyness at the second bolt. Once you grab the jugs clip the third bolt and pull into the dihedral. Stem your way up the fun dihedral until it runs dry. When you get to the roof, pull around left and onto the face. Touch 'Sheila' for a brief moment and then head right. Climb forever on the amazing face using incredible little crimper jugs. After climbing 125ft. the holds vanish and your options become limited. Clip the last bolt and float through the heartbreaker of a finish. This climb is center stage and classic! I can't believe it wasn't climbed sooner.


To the right of 'Sheila' and to the left of 'Eclipsed'.


17 bolts
chain anchors w/fixe steel biners
-use two ropes to get off or an 80m.

Photos of Queen of the Heartbreaks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I brightened the obviously great picture. I though...
I brightened the obviously great picture. I though...
Rock Climbing Photo: the dihedrals
BETA PHOTO: the dihedrals
Rock Climbing Photo: Superb balancy climb from start to finish
Superb balancy climb from start to finish

Comments on Queen of the Heartbreaks Add Comment
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By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 30, 2010

Thanks to Shadow for putting up this amazing route. Overall, I was surprised at how moderate it was. There are some 5.11 moves, but most of the long face is closer to 5.10. This is a great line and a lot of fun. One of my favorites now in Pine Creek for its length and endless technical face.
By Krista m
Jun 25, 2011

good route. worth bringing 2 ropes to climb.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2011

Lots of fun! Use an 80m rope or have the 2nd tag the line. 2 ropes weight for the top crux sucks.
By Short Fall Sean
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 4, 2015

Agreed with the above: great route, definitely worth dragging the extra rope out there to climb it.

How are people finishing this route? After clipping the last bolt I moved slightly left to what appeared to be the most obvious holds. I got to a point where I easily could have stemmed/palmed the big block at the top of Shiela. It felt pretty contrived to not use this feature, but I forced myself to stay off it. Maybe detracted slightly from the quality of the route, but whatever. I'm curious if people have also gone right or even straight up (looked pretty blank).
By Vlad S
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I went left after the last bolt, same as you, since the rope drag from 2 ropes was bad and it looked easier. However, my partner cruised straight up to the anchor without a pause unencumbered by the ropedrag. So, it goes both ways.
By psycoticpilgrim
May 31, 2016

Really fun route, great addition to the area. The exposure at the top is something else, and the dihedral moves at the beginning are just technical enough to get you going before the face.
Agreed with this being moderate for the grade, the top is sustained but no stand out 5.11 moves and there are ample opportunities for rests.

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