Queen Mountain Rock Climbing
Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree NP
Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers
(5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre
(5.10d), White Rain
(5.11a), The Bloodline
(5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).
There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
78 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Queen Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Queen Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Queen Mountain:
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
The Bloodline 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Olympic Dome
Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the ledge where the route ends. Maneuvering around the p...[more] Browse More Classics in California
A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley. Photo ...
Coyotes are hard to see. Photo by Blitzo.
San Gorgonio from Queen Valley. Photo by Blitzo.
Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...
Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Crags near the summit. Photo by Blitzo.
Frontier Wall and Spire. Photo by Blitzo.
one of the many varnished formations on the descen...
Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by B...
Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain. Phot...
Climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
A random tower on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.
The road into Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Moun...
The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain. Pho...
Wash and Frontier Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo...
Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks. Photo by Bli...
Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain. Photo b...
Cirque of the Climbables. Photo by Blitzo.
Coyote tracks in a wash. Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds over Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
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