Quasi-Floating Belay?
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Anyone using this configuration at bolted belays as a common practice? |
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how is this different from a normal two quickdraw anchor and those failure modes? |
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Doesn't seem like a common practice to me at all. |
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as described, this depends on the climber's (and belayer's) body weight as the point of redundancy. which is simulclimbing... sure, it's relatively safe. but there are better ways to create redundancy in an anchor. |
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following just for the stick figure diagrams, please let there be more |
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Why not just use a banshee belay? Locker on both bolts, rope cloved into both lockers, belay off a locker attached to one of the cloved lockers redirected or guide mode. Less gear equally quick more redundant( not as safe as standard methods with equalized master point but on two solid bolts more than safe enough for me). |
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This is just a harness belay redirected off the anchor. The only potential problem is the lack of redundancy of the belayer's tie-in. Add an extra clove hitch to the other bolt and you're good. |
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Ryan M Moore wrote:Why not just use a banshee belay? Locker on both bolts, rope cloved into both lockers, belay off a locker attached to one of the cloved lockers redirected or guide mode. Less gear equally quick more redundant( not as safe as standard methods with equalized master point but on two solid bolts more than safe enough for me).^^^^^ this ^^^^ |
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It's potentially a bad idea if either the geometry of the stance and/or a weight mismatch with much heavier follower allows the belayer, and, more critically, the belay device, to be pulled into the carabiners on the draws. |
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I agree with several of the points already made. Either its two opposed draws on bolts and thatas fine to me. But personally I'd go with some sort of banshee set up with guide mode. |
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What's the point? |
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Thank you, everyone. |
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Bill, if you remove the right hand quick draw from your diagram then not common, but done reasonably often when moving very fast with solid belay bolts. |
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The reason I don't use the set up in the picture for multi is that it eats up gear (quick draws) that could be given to the second for the next pitch. Again I would use a pair of lockers and banshee them them. |
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Makes sense, David. The addition of a break assisting device is hopeful. But I think it could come hard up against the biner of the draw and so the cam might be forced open. |
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Bill Lawry wrote:Makes sense, David. The addition of a break assisting device is hopeful. But I think it could come hard up against the biner of the draw and so the cam might be forced open.I guess this is possible whenever part of the belay is clipped as a jesus piece. |
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Simpler is better. |
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I prefer the OP's belay configuration (but with belayer attached to both bolts) over using an autoblock anchored to a power point. This configuration is faster to set up, and lowering the second is easy. And you don't need to set up a Munter-hitch back-up before going to the difficulty of releasing a loaded rope from an autoblock. |
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Derek Jf wrote:following just for the stick figure diagrams, please let there be moreneeds more asteroid... |
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Leaders aren't tied in. Everybody dies lol. However, they died doing what they loved, i.e., suffering blunt force trauma. Die hard indeed. |
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GB: " To prevent the belay device from getting pulled into the draws, the belayer should hang from a longer tether attached to each belay bolt." |