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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Watts and Alan Lester, October 11, 1980
Page Views: 1,706
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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On Quasar Photo: Reed Cusack

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route lies immediately left of Ground Zero and about 30 feet right of Cruel Sister. Climb juggy rock for about 15 feet to the first gear opportunity. From here follow the finger and hand crack, with the crux coming early on. Most folks stop at the first set of anchors.


This route lies immediately left of Ground Zero and about 30 feet right of Cruel Sister. The frothy rock that makes up the start of the climb makes it easy to find.


Gear to 2.5 inches. Small cams (up to Yellow TCU or Green Alien) are pretty useful.

Photos of Quasar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: quasar
Rock Climbing Photo: Shirley leading Quasar.  Just above her (I think) ...
Shirley leading Quasar. Just above her (I think) ...

Comments on Quasar Add Comment
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By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Oct 17, 2012

To the first anchor feels pretty easy compared to other gorge 10a's. The extensions offered me a whopping one piece of gear and some pretty tricky face climbing above it.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 6, 2013

Went straight up from the ground and I was pleased to have a purple C3, green alien, and blue mastercam. Sustained climbing above. Largest piece I place was green camalot. Personally, I think this is harder climbing than Cruel Sister.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agree with the comments above. The section between the lower and upper anchor involved some rock climbing above your last piece.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 28, 2014

Bomber small stopper for the final moves to the upper anchors but isn't above your head the whole time. Helps to have done a bit of balancy face climbing for this finish.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Update October 2014:

The first anchor was just replaced. The old thin SMC hangars had cut pretty deep grooves into the bolts and they were definitely sketchy. Now there are some really nice fat new bolts.

This is definitely one of the hardest 10a's in the gorge. Heading to the second anchor makes this really full value.
By Brian Martin
From: Bend, OR
Mar 13, 2015

It's thin. I, too, placed nothing bigger than a .75. Takes thin cams very well. I looked at the upper section for a minute and started up but didn't bring the nuts so I downclimbed back to the first anchor. Looks facey and runout. Even the bottom section seemed harder to me than Bloodclot and Cruel Sister. Short, low-angle, locker fingers, and good rests. 10a seems about right.
By iryna
From: eugene, or
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

beautiful crack... thin and delicate, not much for your feet, hands to fingers for me, requires a lot of balance and strength. I really enjoyed it. the part to the new anchors is kind of hard to protect, so we stopped at the older anchors. still, very interesting climb.

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