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Quartz Mountain

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Quartz Mountain Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.8913, -99.3014 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006  with updates from John Barritt
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View from the parking lot BITD, Russel Hooper's Ch...


Also known as Baldy Peak. Winter spot sees shade only early in the morning and then sees sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at it's best. The locals are a very friendly tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmers wheatfield". So please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and the locals can do all their own bolting, but they might need help and I am not sure exactly who would clear such activity.

Getting There 

From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.


Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2010 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.


Quote from Mark Herndon 

"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."

taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson 

The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible."

Read the full story here at the WMCC site

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.6 miles from here

118 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',47],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Quartz Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Quartz Mountain:
Munge Lunge   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Munge Lunge Boulder
Snakes Head   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 150'   Snakes Head / S Wall
The Hobbit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 200'   Sea of Screams
Atlantic Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch   Atlantic
Who's Got the Juice   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 50'   Sea of Screams
South Africa   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   South America
South Pacific   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   South America
Three Bolt   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Atlantic
Snakes Head Dihedral   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches   Snakes Head / S Wall
Bourbon Street   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 150'   Snakes Head / S Wall
Accidents Will Happen   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 50'   Sea of Screams
S-Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Sport, 2 pitches, 220'   Snakes Head / S Wall
El Tesoro   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Atlantic
Amazon Woman   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   South America
Stray Cats   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Stray Cats Wall
Last of the Good Guys   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Headwall
Super Slide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 50'   Sea of Screams
Crusin' for a Brusin   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 50'   Sea of Screams
Moose Head   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Snakes Head / S Wall
Wild Child   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad   Headwall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Quartz Mountain

Featured Route For Quartz Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Seven soloists on Snake's Head (5.5X).

Snakes Head 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Oklahoma : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
About as Traditional as it gets. About 100' left of S-Wall, from an alcove climb up a crack up to the big face and top out....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oklahoma

Photos of Quartz Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Jung mid leap from the snakes head to the bo...
Brian Jung mid leap from the snakes head to the bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the NW side not sure what climb it is but an ob...
On the NW side not sure what climb it is but an ob...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt King on Moose head  Photo: Ryan Ray
Matt King on Moose head Photo: Ryan Ray
Rock Climbing Photo: Three historically classic guidebooks from the gol...
Three historically classic guidebooks from the gol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the parking lot - note the Snake's Head ...
View from the parking lot - note the Snake's Head ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the parking lot during the Fall Gatherin...
View from the parking lot during the Fall Gatherin...

Comments on Quartz Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Oct 30, 2013
I love how the stats for this wall make it seem pretty chill. It's like, "Oh yeah most the routs are a moderate grade and almost half of them are bolted!" Wrong. Read the discription, this little mountain will test the nerves of even the boldest climbers. Yet, this is why we love it :). My point: If you are planning a trip to quartz, do your research first and be prepared.
By Preston Pettigrew
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Feb 1, 2017
Baldy Point Bouldering Guides are available through me! They are homemade and I have a few left!

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