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Quartz Dancer T 
Unknown T 

Quartz Dancer 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Endicott
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on May 3, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Quartz Dancer.

Description 

Climb a steep, narrow slab past two bolts, and make a long reach to a shallow pocket (crux). After clipping the third bolt, climb up into a shallow, crumbling, right-facing dihedral. Place gear ASAP. The rock and the gear improve as one climbs higher. There are some moderate runouts on moderate rock.

A variation moves left from the crux, then climbs moderate rock, rejoining the main line at the base of the headwall. A connection can be made from the first part of Easy Street, diagonaling right to join this variation.

Bolts five through eight protect the strenuous tango along and beyond the left-slanting quartz dike (second crux) to the top of the headwall.

Mike envisioned the route and was first to toprope it and lead it. He placed the bolts, which was also a first for him. His fellow toproping adventurers on April 29 were Leo Paik and GB. On May 1, GB was bolting supplier, advisor, and assistant. On May 3, Ross Swanson engineered the second lead.

Location 

Start uphill and to the right of Easy Street. Watch out for poison ivy.

Protection 

Stick-clip the first of eight bolts. A standard rack will be necessary to protect between the third and fourth (or maybe fifth) bolts, The anchor bolts atop Easy Street are the only in situ anchors and are about 15 feet behind the finish, on a big ledge. Belay the second up, then rappel with a single 70m rope to the ground. To toprope the pitch, extend the anchors with 15-20 feet of sling. A #2 Camalot can be used (to the west and down, toward the lip) to supplement the anchor bolts.


Photos of Quartz Dancer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Endicott dancing with the quartz, May 3, 2015...
Mike Endicott dancing with the quartz, May 3, 2015...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Endicott searching for gear placements, May 3...
Mike Endicott searching for gear placements, May 3...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Endicott farther up the shallow dihedral.
Mike Endicott farther up the shallow dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Endicott making the crux reach, May 3, 2015.
Mike Endicott making the crux reach, May 3, 2015.

Comments on Quartz Dancer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 4, 2015

Looks like an interesting route. How much work/cleaning does the "crumbling dihedral" need and how much will it change/help that situation? Any particular thing you can think of that should be taken up for a subsequent ascent?
By George Bracksieck
May 4, 2015

I don't think that the "crumbling dihedral" needs more work, although some more pieces of rock may yet crumble. Neither Mike nor Ross placed any small cams in the first (crumbling) section of the shallow dihedral, although, from a distance, it looks possible. Each of them climbed carefully and eventually placed #1, #2, and #3 Cams and maybe a #10 Stopper, plus other cams, farther up the shallow dihedral.

The route can use more brushing. Very little has been done.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 4, 2015

Nice. That crag is on my hit list, so I was curious if I should take up a brush or anything. Sounds like I should.
By MC Findley
Nov 9, 2015

Fun route - both the delicate slab climbing down low and especially the steep quartz dike up top. With more traffic, I would expect the crumbly bits to eventually not be an issue, but even as a new route this was manageable.
By Mike Endicott
Nov 11, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found the last bolt placement a bit of a awkward off balance clip, so I have added a six inch webbing extension. The crumbly rock in the mid-section is not much of an issue, but avoid pulling on the flexi-flake in the corner. Requires only a minimum rack (4-5 pcs.) from 1/2 - 3 inch size. Does not feel run out in any section. I think a alternative start may be to climb the water smoothed chimney 8 ft. left and below. Clip the 1st bolt and step back down to try it. Looks like fun!

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