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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
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Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
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Warm-up T 

Quarter of a Man 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Rotert and Steve Hong
Page Views: 8,126
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Nov 11, 2001

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Amir on Quarter of a Man

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The best corner on a wall with countless superb corners. Just left of Black Corner, this climb is extremely hand-size dependent...it is at just that point where many people can get tight hand jams (i.e. feels 5.11ish) while others will need to lieback forever (thus 5.12-). There are a few rests on this one, so be on the lookout for features to stem to. Milk the high rest for all its worth because the crux section begins just afterwards.

Protection 

A whole mess of #2 friends (though you certainly don't need the recommended number from the guide- 12!) or a mix of #.75 and #1 camalots. You can use bigger pieces in a few pods. You'll need 2 ropes for this one.


Photos of Quarter of a Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A quarter of the way up Quarter of a Man is about ...
A quarter of the way up Quarter of a Man is about ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Quarter of A man attempt #2.  Sadly, still 3/16 of...
Quarter of A man attempt #2. Sadly, still 3/16 of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...
Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...
Rock Climbing Photo: Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...
Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...
Rock Climbing Photo: Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...
Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, In...

Comments on Quarter of a Man Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 5, 2002

I onsighted this some years ago. It was my best effort of the trip. The rest high is a bleb on the right side that you can stem and plaster your body in with. The section afterwards just rejects a #1 camalot-I got one in with two cams engaged and decided to go for it. Best to have a 3/4 camalot ready, otherwise you risk a 40 footer getting through. One of those situations where breakfast just stays down.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 28, 2004

Whats a bleb?
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 8, 2005

The term bleb generically means an inclusion, usually rounded, of one material within another. It is used alot in mineralogical and petrological descriptions.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 16, 2007

What does it take to earn 4-stars? This route has stellor rock, sustained jamming, a distinct crux UP HIGH, length and a fun (not giveaway) finish. Give it the 4-stars it deserves. There are not many better corners at the Creek.
By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

FA= Bob Rotert and Steve Hong
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 6, 2010

An incredible route. 11 #2s Jeebus.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 20, 2011

Absolutely amazing route. My hat is off to Bob and Steve on this one! Description says 2 ropes required but a 70m will reach the ground... barely! Took lots of #1 &.75 camalots plus a .5 camalot or two at the end.
By Kevin Volkening
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

11+ NOT 12-
By BigE
Nov 9, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

F@#$%& Great route! I have big hands and its a lot of laying back. A very hard send just due to the endurance needed. Ladies don't be afraid to get on this one!!
By michalm
Mar 5, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Fantastic route. The crack just barely accepts man hands for thin hand jams. I didn't use a single thumbstack but the right foot really got worked on this one.