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Quandary Ice Crag

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Quandary Ice Crag Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 12,600'
Location: 39.3949, -106.1179 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,866
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Brannan on Dec 1, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Nice looking rock on right side of crag (11-30-12)...

Please respect the mining claims in this area.


This ice crag is in the basin below the SW face of Quandary providing a more secluded outing in comparison to the nearby Lincoln Falls crag. Fewer pure ice options exist here than at Lincoln, and don't expect anything over WI3. For beginners, this could be a fun location to practice basic skills and enjoy the mountains. More experienced climbers may find this best as an ice bouldering option or mixed playground to spread use on a busy weekend.

These small cliffs face SE resulting in sun baked ice unless temperatures remain well below freezing during the day. Plenty of water runs through the area though, so multiple beginner to intermediate level flows form. Short (10-15m) mixed lines also look to be worth trying on clean and steep rock. Walk off options are plentiful. Avalanche danger should be minimal in all but the most elevated times, but as always make your own judgment.

Getting There 

A walking trail leads directly to this ice from the Blue Lakes Trailhead, which can remain accessible into the cold months so long as the road stays dry and gates remain open. The approach is around 800 vertical feet and maybe 1 mile. Expect 30 minutes to an hour.

Blue Lakes TH - from Breckenridge, drive 8 miles south on Colorado 9. After sharp corner of Colorado 9, turn west onto the 850 Road (Blue Lakes Road). Follow this for 2 miles west to the trailhead below the dam. There is a large parking area below the dam.

Climbing Season

For the CO Ice & Mixed area.

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Quandary Ice Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper step after too much sun. Photo by Fritz Sper...

Bourbon Beaver WI2-3 PG13  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Quandary Ice Crag
This flow is the largest on the crag, running around 200 feet from top to bottom making for a full 60 meter pitch. Several WI2 steps lead to a WI3 step at the finish. The bottom and top steps are the largest. This maybe a good climb for multi-pitch practice as large pools exist above each step for ice anchors. A walkoff right down talus and scree would also enable easy laps for bouldering. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Quandary Ice Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-up of left side of crag (11-30-12).
BETA PHOTO: Close-up of left side of crag (11-30-12).
Rock Climbing Photo: A topo showing the location of crag and trailhead....
BETA PHOTO: A topo showing the location of crag and trailhead....
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-up of middle of crag (11-30-12).
BETA PHOTO: Close-up of middle of crag (11-30-12).
Rock Climbing Photo: Quandary Ice Crag on 11-30-12 with Trucksicle and ...
BETA PHOTO: Quandary Ice Crag on 11-30-12 with Trucksicle and ...

Comments on Quandary Ice Crag Add Comment
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By Taylor-B.
From: Valdez, AK
Sep 27, 2013
This place is worth a visit if Lincoln Falls is crowded. Thanks for posting this area.

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