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The Amphitheater
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Quaker State 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Tom McMillan 1978
Page Views: 5,249
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jan 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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John Provotero c.a. 1989. Note the existence of be...


This is the obvious crack feature in the center of the left Amphitheater wall. Great climbing with an exciting crux at the top. The centerpiece of the area and one of the best routes at Moores.


Amphitheater, left wall.


Standard rack. This route can seem run out due to tricky placements. However, there is gear available for every section. Get a creative piece for the roof right off the ground. After the high crux, there is a good placement that is hard to see. Many just run it to the top. Fixed anchor with rings.

Photos of Quaker State Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stu at the crux.
Stu at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott cruises Quaker State.
Scott cruises Quaker State.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day
Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day

Comments on Quaker State Add Comment
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By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Aug 30, 2010

It's safe, but really tough to protect well onsight. The possible big whip is safe, though (so i've heard). Awesome route!
By Carolina
From: Farmington, nc
Jul 18, 2011

Steller Climb! Best Climb I have done in NC so far....
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011

Truly classic climb. I have only followed it - the gear looks very tricky. Pretty awesome to watch the pro puzzle be unlocked. An onsight lead would be really impressive.
By Heath Alexander
From: Asheville, NC
Nov 28, 2011

One of the most beautiful lines at Moores. I worked on this off and on all season. Wish I could say I did it ground up, but I top-roped it before I started working on the lead. Be prepared for a moderate runout at the high crux; the gear is solid but well below your feet. I took the fall a few times and it is very safe. Also ended up with a groundfall length runout at the top, but the climbing is easy. I think there may be some gear after the crux, but I was too pumped to stop and place it.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you are skilled, and maybe a little creative, with your gear you can do the entire climb without ever having to do a move harder than 5.7 with gear below your feet. You can actually get great overhead gear for the crux if you have some skills with tricams, and another more shallow piece ~3' lower than that. Classic Climb!
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Sep 9, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The gear on this route is great and the upper, easier climbing can be protected as well. There are also a few rests to be found.
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Oct 10, 2016

The gear is indeed very tricky on this route. It's very safe through the bottom part, but I thought the upper section took serious effort to protect after the obvious .3 placement to start the crux.

Repeat ascents doubtless feel less strenuous to protect, but I got pretty damn pumped looking for placements on my first time yesterday.
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Nov 3, 2016

For the purists who lament the drop off in difficulty after the upper crux:

If you are
a) an onsight climbing beast
b) have the usual path mercilessly wired
c) a masochist

try continuing straight up the whole way, tackling the little arete above the top of the thinning crux crack. Most folks bail right at the end of the crack near the thank god jug but it's reasonable (if a little pumpy) to push on. This probably adds 15-20 feet more climbing in the 5.9 range but it will feel harder after what came before. Stay alert though as there are only a couple of pieces of gear at just the right distance for comfort.

Note that it's very easy to see the path+holds+gear for this option on rappel/lower.

Also, there are two distinctly different starts that I know of and probably are of similar difficulty about 20 feet apart that both end up placing you below the crack coming from the base of the big V. Both protect and are reasonable for leading.

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