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Vertebrae T 
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Pyrrhic Victory 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Kent, Nate Duray 3/2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: Kevin Kent on Mar 31, 2014

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The route follows the bolts, to the dihedral, thro...

Description 

Pyr·rhic Vic·to·ry
noun \ˈpir-ik\ˈvik-t(ə-)rē\:
A victory with such a devastating cost that it is tantamount to defeat.

Start in the same spot as Vertebrae but move up the bolted face. Follow the bolts to a shallow dihedral, and up to the splitter roof crack, resisting the urge to move right onto Vertebrae. After pulling the middle of the roof continue up overhanging ground to the chains.

Taller people will probably find the bottom crux much easier than I did because their height should obviate dynoing.

Protection in the middle dihedral is mostly small and can be tricky to place, so beware.

I should also mention that while cleaning this route I wailed on the seemingly detached roof blocks (including the Vertabrae roof) with a 3' wrecking bar and they are completely solid.

Protection 

3 bolts. Lot of slings, double rack from 000 C3 to .3 C4 with maybe a third .3 size piece, one #2 C4, and tiny to medium nuts should be adequate.

In order I used:
2 draws,
one long runner,
yellow mastercam (blue/yellow offset mastercam would be better if you have it)
medium nut
purple C3
small RP
medium RP
grey C3
yellow mastercam
#2 C4
blue mastercam
yellow mastercam

I would advise putting a full length sling on every piece to avoid the rope running sharply over the edge of the roof.

Please leave the fixed biners on the chains


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By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Good route, once you make the 12 range dynamic crux the remainder is interesting 11 range movement. I placed a gold, blue and a bomber red dmm offset nut, along with a good smallest blue ball nut just before the vertebrae roof along with a few blue and yellow metolius'. Thanks to this page I now know what both pyrrhic and obviate mean, so that's fun too and probably more useful in the long run than sending another climb.

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