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Pyromania 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 6,523
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 22, 2008  with updates from Nathanael

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Randy Leavitt on Pyromania (5.13a), The Needles ...

Description 

This is perhaps the most visually stunning line in the Sorcerer/Witch amphitheater. It takes the arching undercling crack on the Fire Wall, which is the chartreuse wall that sits below the Sorcerer itself.

Easily TR'd via two rappels from the top of the Fire Wall, and led rather safely if the first piece is pre-placed (otherwise it requires some serious boldness for the poor landing off the initial boulder problem).

The climb involves two boulder problems: First a long reach or dynamic move. A good rest follows, then a second boulder problem - a lunge off underclings (or undercling and crimp) to a juggy rail. Hand traverse this rail back right (tricky to protect) to another good rest. The final stretch is endurance underclinging. Positive, but pumpy. An amazingly stunning line, and a lot of fun to climb.

The anchor at the lip is generally used for top roping - while it is possible to reach down and clip this anchor after the undercling, it is best to finish the route by following the easy finger crack to the top of the Fire Wall.

Protection 

Blue TCU's... all of them.

A few wires and RP's are useful as well. I recommend pre-placing/clipping the initial piece to protect from a groundfall. Pre-inspecting the gear on the hand traverse may also be prudent - I used an offset Alien and #2 BallNut.


Photos of Pyromania Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pyromania
BETA PHOTO: Pyromania

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By Josh Janes
General Admin
Jan 26, 2017

Tony Yaniro actually named this route "Pyromaniac", however, over the years (perhaps due to a perpetuated error) the route has come to be known as Pyromania. Thus, the name given to it in this description (not to take anything away from Tony) reflects this widespread acceptance.

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