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Pyrokinesis 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008
Page Views: 2,212
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009

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Still trying to get fired up on the first attempt.

Description 

You may need to start the internal fires for this one... Pyrokinesis is a step up from Fade To Black and also a very different style. Begin as for that route, but just before the dihedral gets steep move right to a stance in a slot capped by a small, triangular roof. Clip a fixed wire and a bolt and perform a very thin, cryptic, bouldery crux. Above here are good holds and a long stretch to a second bolt (protectable with a blue TCU). Cop a rest if you can, and then launch into the bouldery high crux. Sustained edges take you to the top.

Protection 

Thin pro (to 1/2"), a fixed wire and then four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed. An optional blue TCU protects a runout between the first and second bolts.


Photos of Pyrokinesis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Schwarz on some of the most technical climbin...
Matt Schwarz on some of the most technical climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: T-rex action... sending the goods... tamarahastie....
T-rex action... sending the goods... tamarahastie....
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Schwarz getting used to the idea of having to...
Matt Schwarz getting used to the idea of having to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking the post crux whip...  Did that twice and i...
Taking the post crux whip... Did that twice and i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stoking the fires before the FA
Stoking the fires before the FA

Comments on Pyrokinesis Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Yet another amazing route at the Waterfall. Thanks again guys for all the work putting these up. Two cruxes on this one. Lower technical crux and a distinct high enduro crux. I've never been so happy to see an offwidth crack!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 29, 2013

Never went near the off width pillar at the top because of how creaky it looked after close inspection while establishing the pitch. Staying left of it provides the enduro tech finish to an all in all classic technical route.