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Pygmalion Effect S,TR 
Senior Project S,TR 

Pygmalion Effect 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Aaron Stireman
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: Serial Crusher on May 2, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Fantastic route for the grade. Great bouldery sequences, and just enough rock between bolts to make you think twice about pulling out that slack to clip.

Pygmallion Effect is easily the most sustained route around San Luis Obispo. Most local hard sections are over pretty quick, but this one keeps you fighting for it for about 70 feet.

It's partner to the left is pretty similar in style - less than vertical, a little dirty, and very sustained. The only difference on this one is that clipping is downright scary. And the moves are harder. Tiny holds, slopey feet facing every way but the right way, and a giant slab looming underneath you ready to send you to the ER if you blow a clip or your belayer looks away.

You might be able to pull hard on small holds, but unless you are a magician with your feet this thing is just aching to spit you off. Keep Composure.

Location 

The obvious bolted arete right of senior project.

Protection 

All bolts, optional 1" piece at the top to protect some easy climbing at the top.

The big fear isn't so much the fall, but going for a ride to the low angle slab down and climber's right. Don't "take the big one" or it might sting.


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