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Puzzle Palace Rock Climbing
Routes in 7. Puzzle Palace
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Buckbeek TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Diagon Alley T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fang This! TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gorgon, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gorgonzola TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gothic Arch TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Handle, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hogwarts TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Horcrux, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Platform 9 3/4 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Purple Rain T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Purple Rain (Ice) TR WI2 |
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Steve's Prow T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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unknown (2b or not 2b?) T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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What Did I Just Do? TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 549 ft |
| GPS: |
41.14544, -74.16432 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 11,965 total · 103/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Crefeld on Oct 9, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
These top-notch short intermediate climbs make for a splendid afternoon's worth of steep and technical climbing. Natural protection options are very limited, but a long static line will allow you to top-rope these brainy and rewarding climbs.
Remember those luggage holds you think only exist in the gym? Well, you can find them here!
Remember those luggage holds you think only exist in the gym? Well, you can find them here!
Getting There
Puzzle Palace crag is at (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1455 W74.1645)
From parking on Torne Valley Rd, go first to the Tower Wall (GPS lat long ~ N41.1450 W74.1652), then walk ENE roughly flat 360 feet (110 meters). Then at (N41.1454 W74.1641) just before the trail curves right down steep, turn off Left onto a steep loose trail. Scramble up this 130 feet (40 meters) NorthWest then West to the base of Puzzle Palace (N41.14545 W74.16445).
Or perhaps easier (if the less-used dirt roads are not too overgrown with vegetation) is to reach Puzzle Palace without first going to Tower Wall:
From the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14227 W74.16227), walk the main gentle dirt road 0.25 mile / 400 meters (past the turnoff for Tower Wall and Basilisk) farther North toward the electric power substation to a junction at (N41.1462 W74.1619). At this junction turn sharp Left and walk SouthWest gentle up another dirt road about 550 ft / 170 meters. Turn Right (NorthWest) and hike steep up another dirt road about 125 ft / 40 meters. Just after this road curves left (west), turn off Right onto a steep loose trail. Scramble up this 130 feet (40 meters) NorthWest then West to the base of Puzzle Palace (N41.14545 W74.16445).
Estimating: About +210 vertical feet of uphill over about 0.5 mile distance (+63m vert over 0.8km). Typical approach times 12-25 minutes.
From parking on Torne Valley Rd, go first to the Tower Wall (GPS lat long ~ N41.1450 W74.1652), then walk ENE roughly flat 360 feet (110 meters). Then at (N41.1454 W74.1641) just before the trail curves right down steep, turn off Left onto a steep loose trail. Scramble up this 130 feet (40 meters) NorthWest then West to the base of Puzzle Palace (N41.14545 W74.16445).
Or perhaps easier (if the less-used dirt roads are not too overgrown with vegetation) is to reach Puzzle Palace without first going to Tower Wall:
From the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14227 W74.16227), walk the main gentle dirt road 0.25 mile / 400 meters (past the turnoff for Tower Wall and Basilisk) farther North toward the electric power substation to a junction at (N41.1462 W74.1619). At this junction turn sharp Left and walk SouthWest gentle up another dirt road about 550 ft / 170 meters. Turn Right (NorthWest) and hike steep up another dirt road about 125 ft / 40 meters. Just after this road curves left (west), turn off Right onto a steep loose trail. Scramble up this 130 feet (40 meters) NorthWest then West to the base of Puzzle Palace (N41.14545 W74.16445).
Estimating: About +210 vertical feet of uphill over about 0.5 mile distance (+63m vert over 0.8km). Typical approach times 12-25 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Puzzle Palace
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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