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Unsorted Routes:

Puzzle Factory 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
Season: Save this one for the warm days
Page Views: 4,369
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Fissure grippin' on the rock cliffs of Ooooh-tah a...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


An easier version of Ruby's Cafe. Changing corners on purple and green camalots.


Mostly Purple and Green Camalots. Honestly #1.5 friends work best

Photos of Puzzle Factory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Heppnerd
Brian Heppnerd

Comments on Puzzle Factory Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2016
By m-earle
From: USA
Apr 13, 2009

I think the FA is Scott Carson.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 22, 2009

OW to tough big fingers to nohands rest to enduro layback to finish.

Excellent route!

I agree that 1.5 friends work best. I took a bunch of 0.75 Camelots and they were tight prior to the rest but went in well for the finishing layback.
By Tortilla
From: Fakeville, USA
May 23, 2009

I would be hesitant to call this an easier version of Ruby's since it bears little resemblance to that route other than length. Cool route though.
By slim
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

i imagine there are folks that would call this a hard version of ruby's. when you get on this route, gravity literally snaps your head back and you have to hold on for dear life.
By Scott Bennett
Apr 1, 2010

Purple camalots go in well almost all the way up the route. Bring 6-8 Purple Camalots and 2-3 Green.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Aug 25, 2011

And how does it compare to Ruby's outside they are both corners and at Indian Creek? Ruby's is tight fingers to perfect fingers to a roof and back to tight fingers. The other is wideness to rattley fingers (for me). Am I missing something?
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 26, 2011

I agree Chuck

Comparing Puzzle Factory to Ruby's is a bit of a stretch.
By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Scott's gear beta is spot on. Fat fingies would make this easier than Ruby's and the guys nickname is Tank, so...
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012

Purple Camalots are key. 1.5 Friends might be spot on, too, but I think less so than the .5 Camalots. The crack is mostly too tight for .75 Camalots or red Metolious TCUs and too big for orange TCUs.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013

If you try and plug purples in all the way you could die...or nearly so like Dood who got photo'd ripping Blue cams out of Rubys...that's about where the resemblance ends. 1.5 friends work best just like yellow stuffs into Ruby best.
By Cristiano Pereira
Apr 20, 2014

Transitions between corners are the cruxes. A bit of a puzzle factory for sure. Hope to get a red point next time around.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 20, 2014

God created puzzle factory to prove that everybody has a bad size! Man this thing is fun!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 3, 2014

I wish I had a #4 for the opening fist crack. Also I thought the purples seemed a bit loose for extended portions; I'd bring closer to 6 greens instead of 2-3!
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Absolutely amazing!!! Stacks for days!
By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 3, 2016

A #4 is really nice for the opening moves. Other than that the rest of the crack is .5's all the way to the lyback under the chains. Pop in your last .5 from the bail out ledge to the right 2/3rds up. From there 2 .75's is perfect to get to the chains. The lyback feels easy after the changing .5 corners.
By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Apr 1, 2016

Mirroring Ryan's comments:

4 nice for start
1.5 under the roof
.5s to the rest out right
2-3 .75s to the chains

Great Route

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