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Putrid Rat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ches Upham and Chris Wing, 5/28/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 939
Submitted By: Ches on May 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Patrick Callery nears the rappel anchors at the ve...

Description 

The long hand crack directly underneath the rap rings, just left of the U-notch at the top.

The name comes from a dead rat that made us hurry past some of the fun jams on the first ascent. Don't worry though, the namesake is now long gone.

Start underneath the crack (or bypass the start) and cruise to the notch at the top. Alternatively just keep climbing to the bolted anchor.

When rappelling, a 60 m rope will get you 20'+ from the ground. Either down climb or just swing left and take the 3rd class gully the last few feet. Just be mindful of where your ends are.

Protection 

Standard rack (?)


Photos of Putrid Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ches Upham starting to wonder what that stink is o...
Ches Upham starting to wonder what that stink is o...
Rock Climbing Photo: A (thankfully) less-than-putrid rat on SA...
A (thankfully) less-than-putrid rat on SA...
Rock Climbing Photo: Putrid Rat is the crack directly underneath the ra...
Putrid Rat is the crack directly underneath the ra...

Comments on Putrid Rat Add Comment
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By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 5, 2014

Hmmm, you may want to say "10' from the ground when you swing left." More like 20+ if you're on the fall line (and you still need to pull that rope). I have proof (and yeah, that's you, pal): mountainproject.com/v/10893845...
By Ches
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 5, 2014

Good call. It's fixed now. Some simple math would have been an easy double check too! (130' route puts you 30' from the ground without stretch)

I like splitting the difference and swinging left a bit and down climbing a bit.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 13, 2014

This is a thoroughly enjoyable long, moderate crack and a great introduction to Panic Town.

We rappelled this route with a 70m rope and the ends just touched the ground.

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