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Puta de la Sierra 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 550', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Kent, Miguel "Mike" Noriega, December 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Kevin Kent on Feb 11, 2016

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The namesake!

Description 

5 pitch bolted route up the proudest wall, visible from the overlook. This is currently the longest known route in Sonora.

Find the start of the route in the middle of the wall.
P1: Start up some easy ledge climbing to gain the first bolt at the start of a crack. Follow this crack to a large chimney and through a bit of loose rock (worst part of the route) to 2 bolt belay. 9(?) bolts, 40m, 5.10.
P2: Up large stem dihedral, mantle on to the ledge up top with 2 bolt belay. 8(?) bolts, 30m, 5.10+.
P3: Up left facing dihedral. On small ledge move right to base of chimney/OW. Face climb up the edges of this feature, through a small bulge higher up, to a 2 bolt belay at a stance. 9(?) bolts, 35m, 5.10+
P4: Crux. Move right from belay, then up through a break in a roof. Past the break move right again and up thin face(crux) to another 2 bolt belay on a narrow ledge. 6 bolts, 25m, 5.11.
P5: (can link with P4) From belay move up and slightly right, and then more or less straight up to the top out with a 2 bolt belay. 6 bolts, 25m, 5.11-.

Rappel the route in 5 raps with 1 70m rope (requires some 4th class down climbing at the base of P1), or with 2 ropes skipping the stations at the top of P1 and P4.
Some anchors have chain but others have webbing that might need to be replaced (or add some chain!)

Location 

The route is on the large south facing wall on the north side the "head" of the cross, it's visible from the mirador.
To get to the start, park at the overlook and walk east on the road for 100m. Bushwhack down the steep southern arm into La Cruz.
Approach time is 15-20 minutes.

Protection 

Can be safely done with nothing but 12 quickdraws, but some may want a a few supplemental pieces of gear for P1 (singles .3-#2 BD C4) and maybe P3 (1 #5 BD C4).
After seeing that most pitches would need lots of bolts we decided to bolt the entire route, but we only had 50 bolts (minus a few that were wasted on variations that didn't pan out) so the bolts had to be well spaced in a few moderate spots. All the hard 5.10 and 5.11 climbing is well protected. If I ever make it back I'm hoping to add a few more bolts...

All the hardware is good stainless steel. I hope future developers will follow this example.


Photos of Puta de la Sierra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The wall
The wall

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By berti
From: Hermosillo
Apr 7, 2016

Very nice route, go and try it, used a #2, #.75, #.5 for run outs peace of mind. For me the pitch crux was the 3rd pitch OW crack. Did the rappel with a 70 downclimbed a bit the last pitch. Webbing in some stations still looks good. Sunny all day so be prepared with sun block. P4 and 5 are quality rock and have a great view and exposure.

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