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Purple Valley

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 
A Way of Life S 
Big Crack T 
Burden of Dreams T 
Captain One Eye S 
Coffee Talk S 
Come In Your Lycra S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
Electric Cowboy S 
Flaring Crack T 
Grunt T 
Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 
Into the Purple Valley T 
It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 
Love Shack, The S 
Pebbly Poo T 
Pleasant Surprise T 
Shish-kebab T,TR 
Social Butterfly T 
Unsorted Routes:

Purple Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.90083, -83.63815 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,280
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

The routes at Purple Valley are unique for the area and typically aesthetic in appearance and the way they climb. A few routes top out, and most are 50 feet or longer. While Purple is popular, it is not odd to be the only party at the cliff.


Getting There 

Drive to the end of FS Rd. 9b. If you haven't been to Purple Valley in a few years the road now ends quite a bit earlier than it used to. Park same as Dip Wall, cross the creek, and walk the old gravel road to a second creek crossing. After passing a road on the right look for a faint trail on the right across from some old posts. This is the original approach trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Purple Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Purple Valley:
Flaring Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 30'   
Into the Purple Valley   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 95'   
Come In Your Lycra   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Electric Cowboy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Purple Valley

Featured Route For Purple Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Kauffman climbing Into the Purple Valley

Into the Purple Valley 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  KY : Red River Gorge : Purple Valley
Scramble up past a wide section to a roof. Commit to the crack and jam up through a vertical section which gradually eases up. Follow easier (but fun) ground to the summit....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Comments on Purple Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 26, 2007
Sometimes the creek will come over the "bridge", in this case, park and hike the last few hundred feet up to the camping area and trail. In the fall of 2005 the Forest Service Road 9 was washed out and Andy Welter and I rode mountain bikes up to Purple Valley to climb. We weren't the only ones with that idea - another team was already there!
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 5, 2008
As of 5/08, the bridge over the creek is gated. You must park in the pull off just before the creek. To access the approach trail, continue on foot accross the creek. You will pass a marked trail on the right almost immediately after crossing the creek. Keep going and take the next trail to the right about 100 ft further. It's well worn once you cross the small meadow and start uphill.
By Steven Lesiecki
Apr 25, 2016
I am not sure if this is all the time or when it happened, but the gate is closed to FS road 9B all together, you have to hike down the whole thing, which is like 4 miles.
By Adam Lee Mills
Apr 29, 2016
They are currently doing road repairs on 9B. I heard it was supposed to be finished and opened back up last year, however it is still closed. So, who knows when it will be open again..
By Steven Lesiecki
May 25, 2016
its open now actually, and really nice. Did anyone find a chalk bag here? it would be at squeezy or into the purple valley, it was a international climber festival one and we would really like it back. pm me if you got it, thanks.