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Space Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Sex  S 
Black Hole, The T,TR 
Dark Side Of The Moon T 
Kwijibo S,TR 
Made in Japan S 
Moonshadow S 
Neanderthal Dudes S 
Purple Toupee S 
Sun Spots T,S 

Purple Toupee 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Don Welsh, late 80's
Season: Summer
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Kyle Townsend on Sep 12, 2012  with updates from don welsh

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Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Long, sustained technical face route.

Location 

First route right of Neanderthal Dudes (11d), start from the base rather than on top of the slab.

Protection 

9 bolts to fixed anchors.


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By Vlad S
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Once you find all the holds at the top, it's not too bad - just grab a few razor-sharp crimps and pull really hard. However, most of the beginning of the route is a jughaul compared to Neanderthal Dudes and especially Alien Sex. I heard over the years that some hold broke, so didn't bother trying it. Too bad, because it's by far the best route on this wall. Very fun and actually feels like sport climbing, since you are grabbing holds, unlike on Alien Sex, where you are greasing off tiny crystals while squinting up looking for the next rugosity that will shred your skin.