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Purple Wall
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Purple Pumper 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Luke Douglas, Greg Martinez & Tyler Phillips, 11/5/2005
Page Views: 1,885
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jun 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Clipping the last bolt

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Best line on the wall. Purple Pumper will puzzle you in places that will pump you if you're not persistent. The first 15 feet are rotten but easy, from here on out it is pure pleasure. There were some reachy moves, a lot of footwork, and even more balancing acts. Absolutely worth the hike.


Just right of the tree that grows beneath the jagged corner system that splits the Purple Wall. This is the second route from the right. Rappel from the two chain anchor.


9 gray bolts to a two chain anchor shared with Purple Gurpel on the right.

Photos of Purple Pumper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Bird on Purple Pumper
Mike Bird on Purple Pumper
Rock Climbing Photo: Tosh at the chainsssss
Tosh at the chainsssss
Rock Climbing Photo: Tosh on lead  Purple Pumper .10b
Tosh on lead Purple Pumper .10b
Rock Climbing Photo: Tosh Peters on lead
Tosh Peters on lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Tosh Peters on lead
Tosh Peters on lead
Rock Climbing Photo: My rope shows the bolt line for Purple Pumper.
BETA PHOTO: My rope shows the bolt line for Purple Pumper.

Comments on Purple Pumper Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Garrett
Sep 20, 2007

50 feet? That's a stretch of the imagination.
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Oct 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

awesome route. 8th clip is balancy followed by the crimpy crux. this inspired me to spend a lot of time at the purple wall.
By Michael Buchanan
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Get on this route! Fun, well protected, great rock, awesome edges! As LCC standards go, I wouldn't call it a 10a/b. Last move can be height dependent. Its harder than Purple Gurpel (see my comments for my reasoning on that grade), but not as hard as alot of 10s or 9s in LCC. I would call this a 9- or 9. It is super fun. Great no hands rests, fun moves. I agree w/ James, it not 50 ft of hard climbing. The first bolt off the ground is to protect yourself from the loose stuff, but your belayer would get sucked into if you fell, so best not to clip it (10 feet of forth class doesn't need to be protected). There is a nice protection bolt easily clipped before the serious climbing begins.
By Andrewprime1 Arredondo
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Just climbed this today and I have t say it was the best route up on Purple wall. At lest in the top two. I had a great time climbing this, wouldn't call it 10a though maybe 9+. Definitely needs to be done if you are heading up there.
By Dory Elizabeth
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2016

Super fun! Definitely a confidence-builder for a 10 (I'd agree with previous commenters that 9+ might be more accurate.) One of the nuts on the second or third bolts up is a little loose. If you're feeling like a good samaritan, bring a socket wrench with you and tighten 'er up.

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